Nsefu was the final lodge in our trip to S Luangwa - and we had managed to save the best for last. The lodge is small - only six rooms - and we were the last guests of the wet season, so had the place to ourselves with the staff.
We transferred by (large, covered) boat from Kakuli, and were met on arrival by camp manager Daudi who with our guide and the team looked after us for the three nights we were with them.
Rooms were the nicest of our trip - solid built, no reed or thatch, built as 'rondavels' - round bedrooms with a huge bed with mossie net although we saw no mossies - snakes yes, mossies no!) and bathroom at the back, open to the air, with a good shower, and place to hang/shelving for clothes.
The camp routine was the usual wake at 5.30 for breakfast, then out on the boat at about 6.30. No trucks here at this time of the year, as it's too wet and the roads are not yet passable. Breakfast was cereals, juice, fruit, yoghurts and the best toast ever, made over an open fire.
Out then by boat with Bertrand our guide and Christopher, ranger. we did some great walks - one to the enormous stork colony which was fascinating to see (how on earth do these enormous birds perch upon the smallest twigs at the top of the trees!!) and other lovely walks and boating through the river tributaries, and through what we could of the ebony forest. (Water too low to go very far thanks also to a fallen tree at one entrance to the loop through the ebony trees!). No leopards (again!!! - not a single one this trip) but we did get close to ele's, zebra, hippo, crocs, and due to the camp's stunning location at the bend of the river, had the best sunsets of the trip.
The food at the camp was excellent - buffet style lunches with salads, home made bread, quiches, etc. Very nice food - flavoursome, well presented and served. Lunch and dinner were served around the dining table, breakfast in the bar area.
The vibe of the camp was a calm stilless. we sat in the bar one afternoon, watching (for about an hour) a very young baby puku discovering baboons for what looked like the first time. The bird life here is fantastic - if you are not particularly keen on birds, don't be put off by this - we aren't, but love seeing the more colourful species we don't get at home. We also adored the two tiny owls that Daudi spotted in the big tree by the bar (although it took us ages to spot them even though they were only 10 feet above our heads!)
Sadly, our time came to an end and we were joined on the boat by the entire camp staff who were going home for the break between the seasons. This proved a jolly trip - the team are very friendly, and hopped off the boat into the bush at points close to where they lived. We were taken back to the airport via the main Robin Pope Lodge Nkwali which looked lovely and we were a bit sorry we hadn't stayed there. They produced another excellent lunch, and gave us one of their rooms to use for the short time we were there which impressed us as we were only passing through.
We would highly recommend both Nsefu and Nkwali (from the little we saw) and the Robin Pope operation. Their guides are excellent and Nsefu is a very special place. we were extra lucky to have the entire place to ourselves. thank you!
IF YOU ARE TRAVELLING ON BA VIA LUSAKA - PLEASE CONSIDER HELPING THE SALVATION ARMY ZAMBIA PROJECT. We did and it is a great and easy thing to do. Please follow this link...http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?threadID=2014699
