On approaching Earth Lodge, one can already sense that there is a difference here. There is no grandiose approach as one comes near, no sweeping view of the camp with wooden walkways stretching out alongside a river bank, no sense of a human enclave pitted against the rugged wilderness.
Instead, what greets you is a perfectly normal grassy hill in the veld, dotted with a few trees and looking very much like any of the little hills surrounding it. One disembarks the vehicle quite neatly onto a raised platform, set into the side of a slight knoll in the hillside, floored with a light, sandy gravel.
Then, for the first-time visitor, begins a very mysterious descent into the hilltop via a wide, snaking, paved pathway which ends in a closed heavy wooden doorway into the darkness of the subterranean soil of the hill, which seems at that first impression to lead into some other world. The doors are then opened dramatically from the inside to reveal the most amazing sight.
Light from the other side comes streaming through the doorway, dazzling at first, and then forming the most incredible picture. We now find ourselves sheltered within an oasis set into the hillside and looking out upon a magnificent vista of pristine African landscape revealed on the other side of the hill, dotted with acacia and marula trees and with numerous indigenous grasses swaying in the breeze.
The lodge itself has an ancient feel about it, as if it has taken on some of the permanence of this hillside in the African Veld that has stood here for millennia. Everything seems to be made up of the very materials that were excavated from the hill in the first place. Earth, wood and metal in their raw, natural forms, fashion the basis of the internal structures and décor. It feels as if it had been built by some ancient civilization who were in total harmony with their surroundings and understood the bond between themselves, their environment and Mother Earth. The whole lodge fits in snugly with the hill and doesn’t perch atop it. It coalesces with the surrounding veld rather than being an autonomous human settlement.
The low ceilings and walls of bare earth throughout the lodge bear witness to this, not only emphasising the magnificent natural panorama that unfolds before you, but indicating an attitude of humility before it. The clever use of entire trees delivered by the floodwaters of the Sabie River creates some mysterious and beautiful adornment which feels just right in this instance. Water, the source of all life in Africa, forms a very focal role in the layout of the lodge, with all the communal areas radiating out from a central natural spring where reeds and bulrushes play host to a multitude of butterflies and dragonflies by day, and a chorus of reed frogs by night.
But this is no rustic hole in the ground. Instead modern, state-of-the-art architectural design with clean, striking lines, coupled with some very funky furniture and daring focus pieces make this a very 21st century structure. The detail is exceptional, and every single piece of ornamentation has been deeply thought about to blend in perfectly with the whole. No expense has been spared in making this lodge as decadently comfortable as possible with all the creature comforts one could desire: luxurious divans and couches abound in cool, air-conditioned lounges; massive, deep, free-standing baths and refreshing personal plunge pools are an invitation to wallow in; deliciously textured fine linens and smooth cream-coloured floors are a delight to the touch - these are just some of the enchantments that await you. There is also the wonderful Amani spa where you can treat yourself to an indulgent massage or your choice of a number of other treatments that will make you feel like a tribal king or queen.
The service is friendly and personal, with every member of staff always willing to attend to your needs and enquiries efficiently, and importantly, cheerfully. The food is sublime with enough unusual combinations to pique your interest, but without reaching into the bizarre. The safaris are incredible, especially the abundance of the rarer sightings like Leopard and Rhino, and guided by some very knowledgeable and obliging rangers.
This seamlessly close-to-nature experience, along with the otherworldly, ancient-and-modern allure of Earth Lodge, where you feel the regal presence of some bygone era, is a pleasant departure from the typical safari lodge experience, which grows on you by the day. Could this be the future of the safari lodge?
