The best kept secret about superb cuisine in southern Vietnam is the extraordinary gourmet dining on Phu Quok, at Freedomland, a hip, laid-back, resort in the northern hills of the island, not far from Mango Bay.

Comparable to the finest dining in New York, Milan, Lisbon or Marrakesh, dinners at Phu Quok are a memorable experience, to be savored, experienced, tasted, devoured, discussed, laughed over, delighted by, and photographed. This is not simply eating: it’s a sensual and satisfying social—even a spiritual -- exchange, orchestrated by partners, Rita, Peter and Van Hai, along with Freedomland kitchen staff. They create a moveable feast nightly. Bringing to the table diverse and long experience in Canada, the EU and Asia, Rita, Peter, their partners and staff make each evening a unique experience in gourmet dining.

At a long row of glossy Caribbean sea-green-blue painted wooden tables set under the stars, among trees strewn with sparkling white lights. guests at Freedomland and select outsiders convene nightly to sample whatever delights Peter, Rita and their staff have designed for the evening. Not a simple dinner, the communal dining at Freedomland might start with an elegant soup, perhaps cauliflower or beet, served by cordial staff as the tropical night darkens. The second course is a bit of invention, perhaps local scallops lightly grilled and served with lime on a thin, toasted slice of baguette, accompanied by a twist of aubergine, grilled and drenched in balsamic vinegar. Or it might be a plate of delicate Phu Quok crabs, with lime, freshly grown local black pepper from the island plantations and sea salt.

Appetizers are followed by another course, perhaps, chicken tajine with raisins and lime, or a parrot fish, lightly grilled and served whole with lime. Vegetarians, those who eat fish, but no meat, kids, each are served according to their preference.

Beaf steak, grilled to perfection, is served on a square white porcelain dish, with local asparagus, garnished with small tomatoes and local vegetables. If not beef, this course might be a pasta primavera, or a pasta with grilled cravette from the seas of Phu Quok. The pasta is made fresh in the kitchen, in a tradition that combines Vietnamese and Mediterranean expertise. All ingredients are fresh and local.

The conversation (in English, Portuguese, French, German, Vietnamese, Arabic, every language, depending on who the guests are) accompanies a sound track of designed by Van Hai. The music varies nightly. If you are drinking, Van Hai mixes an exotic twist, combining liquers with local Phu Quok island fruits: dragon fruit, pineapple, watermelon. If not, clear water is perfect, after a long day in the sea and sun.

End the evening after four or five or more courses, with dessert, perhaps a slice of pineapple grilled and served with palm sugar, or a small wedge of local orange in season, drenched in grenadine, garnished with cinnamon and mint. Fine dining is an art; at Freedomland, it’s done perfectly.

I was a bit skeptical to book at first. Having read the reviews, the idea of having to share dinner with strangers scared me a bit. I envisioned political conversations gone awry, people getting up and walking away angrily. The location seemed off also, neither a beach front resort nor close to the town.

In the end, what made me suspicious before arriving was what made the place extra special.

Peter's cooking was the best we experienced on our trip. Course after course of fresh products, from catch-of-the-day fish and seafood, to fruits and vegetables, prepared to entice the most discerning palate.
Sitting at the table with strangers was actually interesting. There were people who had been traveling for a long time, expats living in Vietnam, and others who had just started their journey. Some traveling alone, others with partners and a few with (very well behaved) children. In general there was a lot of tip exchange and anecdotes. The political conversations were also present, but with like-minded people. All very pleasant.

About the location: quiet, very quiet, beautifully quiet, surprisingly quiet. After the constant noise and aggression from motorbikes everywhere else, Freedomland was the perfect getaway. It's secluded, with enough distance between bungalows, and a short and pleasant walk to the beach.

My girlfriend and I had a great time there. Peter is a great cook and Rita a warm hostess. We even extended our stay two days. I would stay again at Freedomland any time.

We (four friends) stayed at Freedomland in January and it was the best experience we've ever had. The treehouse bungalow was just wonderful. We chose to have dinner there almost every night. The food was amazing and consisted of 5 to 6 courses every night. Besides the food communication is an important part of the experience at freedomland. During dinner we got to know so many nice people. Peter and Rita really created something special here. We spent most of days exploring the island by motorbike or relaxing at the beaches nearby. The boat tour with Peter was great and the food was perfect as always. We highly recommand this resort.

We stayed in Coconut Bungalow in November and had the best time at Freedomland. It would be a reason to come back to South Vietnam.

Unfortunately we only had 2 days, but in that time met lots of like-minded people, and evening meals with everyone together was like being at a chilled party with friends. Amazing food and lovely cocktails too... Lovely beach is 20 minutes' walk, and one day Peter took a group of us on a boat trip to a beautiful deserted beach for swimming and BBQ.

We almost extended our stay, which Peter and Rita were willing to sort out even though the place was pretty full. We also changed our minds about how to travel back to Saigon the morning we were leaving and Peter phoned various places and arranged everything for us. He even arranged for our taxi driver as we were leaving to stop at a shop to buy me some 'vegetarian meat' I'd loved that he had made for dinner one night (thanks Peter!).

The bungalows are great - rustic, but spacious and incredibly clean. Loved the bathroom ouside and showerhead made from a coconut!

I've travelled quite a bit and this is definitely one of my favourite places so far...