We spent a wonderful week in Sayulita, a village right on the pacific coast. It was an ideal place for a beach vacation without the resort atmosphere. It's a real place, and the locals go to the beach along with all the tourists. There is "just enough" tourist infrastructure (small hotels, a variety of restaurants, etc.) to make it comfortable, but not too much to make it feel like a tourist trap. It's rough around the edges, but loved that too.The people, the place, the food -all of it has a wonderful authenticity.
Mostly, I want to shar a few tips for people planning a visit:
1. Our favorite find was a new restaurant called "Lupe." It is a block off the main square, didn't have a sign yet, but is notable for its white modern decor. The owner, chef and waitress is a local woman who prepares contemporary Mexican dishes that could be served at a hip restaurant in NY. The food is fresh, and her preparation is wonderful. The thing is, this restaurant isn't any more expensive than some of the other pizza or fish taco places down the street. Its just much better.
2. Go to the Salsa night at Don Pedro's, a restaurant right on the beach. They have a 6-piece cuban salsa band. They start the evening with dance lessons, then the crowd danced into the night on the open air dance floor. It is an amazing thing to be a part of, even just to watch.
3. I took a surfing lesson from a guy at Tigre Surf, which has an outpost right on the beach. I was a total beginner, and within an hour I was up on the board, riding the little waves, and having a blast. The best $40 I spent. There are a lot of options for renting surf & boogie boards (hourly, daily, weekly, etc.).
4. The bus from Puerto Vallarta is really easy. We took a $50 taxi ride to Sayulita from the airport when we arrived, which is a fine way to just get to the beach as fast a possible. However, the public bus is only $2, doesn't take a whole lot longer, and is very comfortable. The bus stop is outside the airport. Walk past all the taxis waiting right outside the door, cross over the pedestrian bridge, and on the other side of the street you can catch the bus or a taxi that will be cheaper than the ones trying to catch you as you come out the door.
5. We stayed at Aurinko bungalows, which is lovely - close to the beach & the town square, accross the street from a food market, very clean, and comfortable.