I've travelled extensively around Namibia and stayed in a wide variety of accommodation from camping to upmarket lodges. The rooms at Ai Ais represent by far the nicest accommodation I have stayed in, for the price range (N$500 per person per night in August 2010).
The accommodation is recently renovated and double rooms feature two large twin beds set side-by-side with sumptuously smooth crisp white bed-linen on gorgeously comfortable mattresses. Rooms are gently lit by spotlights, have marbled floors and good-quality fixtures and fittings. In addition, all the lotions, potions and fluffy bathrobes you would expect of a good European hotel (often lacking even in expensive lodges in Namibia) are present. The shower water is pumped from the natural springs and guests are advised to let it run for 10 minutes or so before showering so that it is hot.
When we visited, the restaurant at Ai Ais offered a very limited menu of 3 starters, 3 mains and just one dessert option. None of the mains were vegetarian but the kitchen willingly made something for me (though quite what the dish was supposed to be I'm not sure). The food was disappointing, though not awful, and my boyfriend tells me that his meat dish "wasn't anything special". That said, the disappointing quality of the food compared to the standard of the rooms would not deter me from visiting again. It is also worth noting that rooms contain a fridge and guests are able to use the braai (BBQ) facilities at the campsite.
The real reason why people visit Ai Ais is for the fabulous hot springs. Inside the main accommodation building of Ai Ais (but free also for campsite guests) are two large pools and four jacuzzi-sized pools, all filled with the naturally hot, mineral-infused water Ai Ais is famous for. An hour in these pools is an incredibly relaxing experience that I have been craving for since my last visit! On site also is a very reasonably priced spa. When I visited, the spa was fully-booked so I couldn't get one of wonderful-sounding massages. I would advise booking in advance- I imagine this can be done through NWR (accommodation bookings need to be made via NWR in advance but campers can stay without a prior reservation, subject to availability).
Ai Ais is the end point of the 5 day hike through Fish River Canyon but I am also told that a number of unguided short walks and hikes can be done from the accommodation.
