We spent New Year in Bansko skiing and stayed at the Mountain Paradise hotel. With a few exceptions, we found the skiing to be pretty good (largely due to a huge fall of fresh snow while we were there), the food to be average, the customer service to be comically poor and the morning queues enough to stop us from going back.
Firstly the hotel was pretty good. We had an apartment which slept 6 and was excellent value for money. The bar in the lobby was good with genuinely friendly and prompt staff- the only ones we found in the whole town. The restaurant in the basement is best avoided however and the reception staff are not helpful. We were without power and water for a day and a night but so was the rest of the town so not the fault of the hotel. I'd recommend the Mountain Paradise, especially after reading reviews for some of the other hotels.
The skiing facilities are adequate with the one major exception being the queues for lift passes and to get up the main access gondola in the morning. On our first day we queued for 2 hours to get lift passes and then another 2.5hours to get up the gondola, so after getting to the slopes at 8.30 we started skiing about 1.30. The queues for the access gondola form each day by about 8.35 and grow fast. We found that if you get there by 8.30 you hardly queue at all (but since the rental shops don't open until then this is difficult to acheive if you don't take your gear home each night). By 8.35 you'll queue for about 20 - 30mins and by 8.45 it was more like an hour. If you're not there by 9am stay in bed and go up at lunchtime- you'll get the same amount of skiing in. The queue itself is not based on the orderly English style but is basically everyone trying to push in at once, coming in from the sides, sending their kids to push in for them, etc etc. It is extremely annoying after queueing for an hour to have people literally lift the cordon out of the way and elbow in in front of you. We saw several altercations, including two fights, in this queue and the mountain staff do nothing to make it run more smoothly. Basically its the Eastern European method of "get to the front by any means necessary", versus the English style of "get to the front in the order you arrived" and by itself this is enough to stop me going back to Bansko.
Once you are on the slopes the queues are minimal and the lifts are all pretty fast and reliable. The pistes themselves are limited (only one black run and most runs finish in one of two places) and crowded, with the beginners snow-plowing down the middle and the better skiiers and boarders skiing in between the pistes and down the sides of the groomed trails. We saw (and were all at various times involved in) collisions on the slopes due to the mix of beginners and advanced skiiers on each run, and the fact the runs all converge at the end.
The off-piste runs were really good. We had about a foot of snow fall while we were there and had a great couple of days making fresh tracks through the trees in knee-deep powder.
We found the food on the mountain to be OK, once we worked out where to go, and not expensive.
Rental gear was cheap (about EUR 130 for a week for brand new gear) but there is a serious lack of availability. We had to visit several places before we found one with gear to rent, and the day after we arrived there was none to rent anywhere in Bansko. People were faced with the choice of not skiing or purchasing gear.
The facilities in town are a mixture of good and apalling. The Old Town is very nice and has some good places to eat and drink, and the Mediterranean restaurant at the top of the town is superb. The food at Amigos on the other hand is possibly the most revolting I have ever had at a restaurant and the service at the Guiness Hotel bar is so bad and rude we thought we might be on candid camera.
Generally the infrastructure of the town is still in development, other than in the Old Town. As well as the power cut mentioned above, there are building sites everywhere and numerous service trenches and uncovered manholes that are not marked and virtually invisible at night. We hit a pothole while driving that destroyed one wheel of our car and watched as about 10 other cars suffered the same fate and we felt at more risk of breaking a leg walking around town than on the slopes. The area at the bottom of the ski lift is part road, part car park and part pedestrian area with cars, buses and skiiers all competing to get through. We heard of someone who broke their leg only to find that the Bansko hospital has no crutches. In short there is a general lack of planning and you get the feeling the place is a few years away from being completed.
However we did enjoy the trip. As mentioned, the skiing was very enjoyable and, with the exception of the morning gondola queues, as a group we found the shortcomings of Bansko to be funny rather than a major inconvenience. If they sort out the acces queues Bansko will be a good place for a cheap ski holiday if you are not bothered about fine dining, good infrastucture or being treated with basic courtesay. Its also probably a place to go in a group so you can make your own fun rather than rely on what's available locally.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC