This hotel was recommended to me by an American academic who has written books on Burma and who therefore knows the country well. He says it's by far the best place to stay and although I didn't check out any other hotels, I certainly wasn't disappointed. The pool makes a huge difference and I like having a safe in my room too. The rooms were clean and more than adequate. The breakfast here was phenomenal (as it was in my hotel on the Inle Lake), and unfortunately I'm one of those people who find they have to sample a bit of everything... I came back from Burma heavier!

Ask for an Economy room or if none available then a Superior room. You MUST ask for a river view, they are in short supply and if you don't ask... Sitting on your verandah looking out over the river is just breathtaking. There are two rows of rooms over the river and one is lower than the other and you really feel near the river and miles from anywhere, but I only know this as I went down and had a look (intrigued as to where people had been when they came out of a mini subway!), but my room was on higher ground but the way the grounds are laid out you are unaware of there being more rooms, the garden appears to go on to the river. If I go again I'd ask for the rooms on the lower/river level (I'm not sure how they refer to them), but if they didn't have I wouldn't worry. Mine was great too.

Pagan is one of the most beautiful places on earth. I think it is busier now than ever, or certainly in a long time, and will no doubt get busier and busier (if the road to democracy continues), go as soon as possible and try and stay away from coach tours. You can arrange your itinerary with a local agent and then your money gets into the hands of locals.

Outside the hotel there are pony and traps, the perfect way to see the temples and stupas of Pagan. Again I was given a recommendation: Mr Win Ko. On my first morning I went out and asked for him and he wasn't there but the other drivers said they'd find him... soon after I had a call to my room saying Win Ko was at reception for me. He had been at a wedding party for his cousin and left to come to the hotel, he was glad of the money but I felt real bad about his party. Win Ko will take you to all the main temples and to a good one at sunset (you'll see EVERYONE heads to a temple to watch sunset), he will take you to the most popular first but if that looks busy there are really good quiet alternatives (tell him you want a quiet one if that's what you like). He took us to one where there were just five of us altogether and the sunset was the highlight of the trip, the sun going down on this haunting, other-worldly landscape of temples and stupas with the river glistening in the light. You'll understand why Burma captured the hearts of so many travellers. Win Ko also took us (as requested) to a good lacquerware shop and you see the lacquerware being made. There are about three main, well-respected workshops I think, and countless others, and I expect they are all quite similar. You can buy cheap imitation painted lacquerware at lots of places (every main temple you go to), and I bought quite a few things from these, but try and buy one decent thing at least if you can. They often have the "good stuff" in a sealed room away from the heat. Prices are quite high but you won't regret buying the better quality items when you're home (whereas a few of the cheap imitations I bought at stalls outside temples have been less successful).

You'll probably only spend 2 or 3 nights here, which is enough. Allow at least that long, you need a day to hire a bike and wander around the city (ie lunar landscape of ancient temples and stupas), plus an afternoon at the pool is a treat in what can be a hectic schedule in Burma.