Mafia Island is probably the way that Zanzibar was years ago. The airport is tiny with a bougainvillea draped “waving bay” and the 20 minute drive to Pole Pole on a rutted unpaved road was hair-raising (well, it was my first rural African driving experience) but Pole Pole was an oasis of pleasure when I reached it.
The food was (IMHO) terrific and the manager, Robyn, couldn’t have been more charming and helpful.
The individual houses are arranged do that their back porches face a fantastic view of the sea. On the porch there is a day bed as well as a couple of tables and chairs. At 6 pm, the barman comes around taking orders for cocktails, which are then delivered to allow an uninterrupted enjoyment of the sunset.
As well as three wonderful meals each day, a daily excursion is included. This included a morning snorkelling followed by a picnic on a sandbar (including a fresh caught fish roasted over an open fire), a visit to Chole Island, a whale watching trip and more great things to do than I had days for. I would return in a heartbeat.

We stayed at Pole Pole after visiting the game parks in Tanzania and as a quieter alternative to Zanzibar. We were really happy with the resort, it was really relaxed, had great service, good food and was right on its own private beach. We enjoyed taking little excursions each day, most of which were included in the price. A highlight of the trips was swimming with the Whale Sharks (not included). We really enjoyed sitting down on the beach with a cold drink from the bar, a perfect way to relax and watch the dhows go by. The rooms are very basic, but are quite pleasant. They have fans and get a good breeze in the evenings. The bed was a bit too basic and provided a poor nights sleep. But everything else at the hotel was great. My wife enjoyed a massage and said it was really good. The snorkeling was good, but the marine park is average - corals a bit sad, but great fish life. I didn't get a chance to go diving, so maybe the marine life is better at the dive sites. I was a little concerned with the quality of the dive operation that was managed by the neighbouring Mafia Island Lodge. The little italian owners described in previous reviews were not to be seen, so maybe they have sold up. But the manager and staff were all very helpful, courteous and provided great service. The food at the restaurant was always good and sometimes excellent.

We were four friends meeting up on Mafia Island as a reunion of sorts- all of us marine lovers who have been all over the world to beautiful snorkelling/ diving islands... we knew it would be beautiful and fun, but we really had no idea what we were in for and how much Pole Pole would impress us.
Our accommodation was so cute and quaint with beautiful touches everywhere that we could have stayed there all day long ordering espresso or teas on the veranda overlooking the mangroves and waters of Chole Bay. The lodge looked elegant made out of mostly local woods and materials, extremely tasteful and aesthetically designed. The food was unbelievably good, with fantastic options for those of us who were vegetarians or who had other dietary restrictions. Service was wonderful and the staff were sweet and friendly. Very genuine and happy people who made our stay all the better.
As for the marine life, we were all blown away with our encounters with whalesharks. What an adrenalin rush- yet humbling experience! The whalesharks themselves make it worth the entire trip... but then when we went snorkelling and diving inside Chole Bay our awe increased even more, if that were possible! Diving was rather phenomenal with better overall diversity and abundance than Zanzibar and much larger fishes. We saw sharks, sea turtles, Napolean wrasses, manta rays, and massive groupers. Much of the coral reef health is still in great condition. I would liken the quality of diving to Palau in Micronesia and at times as good as South East Asia. Divers and snorkellers will not be disappointed no matter where you have been before... there is both macro and mega-fauna to enjoy!
Pole Pole couldn't have been more ideal and we thank all of the people at Pole Pole lodge for making our trip perfect and unforgettable. It is definitely a place that I will return to in a heart beat, next time with my husband and daughter.

We stayed at pole pole for 5 nights - and did not want to leave!
Every minimal detail has been thought of and the service is absolutely impeccable. Staff is fantastic, both in pole pole and at the dive centre.
Highly, highly reccomended!