I've been to India many times, but always in the South which is much more gentle and less poverty stricken than the North, so I've been told. I was surprised at how confontational I found Calcutta - the streets of the city are really shocking in their filth, poverty and decay. (I know this sounds pathetic - Tourist finds India Dirty!) Every day I'd return to the Fairlawn (We stayed five nights, over Christmas) and be amazed and so pleased at how clean, tidy and fresh it was. Amazing when you consider what the rest of Calcutta is like. Our room was old, but very clean. Unlike the staff at the Oberoi Grand, I didn't feel the Fairlawn staff fawned obsequiously. The place has character and charm and Ms Violet, the owner, is a real charmer. We didn't get a bath, just a shower - which wet the entire bathroom, it was one of those open showers - but the water was always hot, the floor always clean. No bugs, no flies, no mosquitoes. We loved the tradtional breakfast. And the guy who does the laundry is utterly amazing - we've never had such clean, bargain price laundry.
There was only one fault, and I mention it so others can take care not to be ripped off: We asked the hotel to arrange for a car to meet us at the airport. This they did, for an agreed fee of IR700. At the time we thought this not bad. The car that met us was the most horrible beaten up little car, utterly filthy. The driver drove like a maniac. He demanded IR100 before we even started the journey - for parking, he said. And then he put the price up to IR800 and demanded a tip. Demanded it. We found out the usual taxi cost is around IR250 - 300, for the trip, and the super nice guy on the hotel gate got us an immaculate taxi, beautifully driven, to take us back to the airport. So I do not recommend getting the Fairlawn to arrange a car from the airport. But otherwise the place is a haven, a retreat, somewhere to calm down and enjoy life after the really challenging streets of Old Calcutta.
Room Tip: We had number 8, upstairs on the staircase, and it was fine. The only drawback - no bath, but it...
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