I was rather apprehensive when the taxi-driver told me that Casa Aurea was not a hotel but an experience, and that Cornelius, the owner, might look odd, shirtless and with a long white beard, but was a decent man : I felt that I was being prepared for a terrible shock..When I arrived the breakfast/reception area was dimly lit, an old lady was lying asleep on one of the many sofas, and to get to my room I went down stone steps, out into a cobbled courtyard, down wooden stairs, then further stone steps into my own private courtyard, to find a rather basic room with solid furniture made by Cornelius. The bathroom was outside, reached by a short covered walkway, and was private. I had been expecting something more modern, and was disappointed, though I noticed everything was spotlessly clean.
Next morning however I was woken up by deafening birdsong and looked out to see beautifully tended gardens in the surrounding houses. The breakfast room was originally the courtyard of the 18th century mansion and was open on three sides and surrounded by tropical trees and shrubs, with monkeys and birds crashing around. Breakfast was at a communal table, where on occasion everyone else spoke Portuguese but included me in the conversation with smiles and nods. And the breakfast was good - bread toasted and rolls warmed up to order, an endless supply of fresh coffee, ham, cheese, eggs and various jams. Apart from the birdsong, it was so peaceful that I found myself sitting there alone after breakfast, reluctant to go out sightseeing.
Dominique and Samia were highly intelligent and knowledgeable and good to talk to, and I learned a lot about Brazil. They were also immensely helpful, ordering taxis and offering to send out for food if I arrived in the evening. Cornelius and his wife were warm and welcoming. I very quickly felt at home, and fell in love with the place. A big plus for someone aged 68 who likes to read in the evenings was that the room was well-lit. On my last day I checked out but left my bags until I went to the airport for my late evening flight, and before leaving I was allowed to take a shower.
I paid around £65 per night, which by Rio standards is very cheap. Take into account that the pound sterling has depreciated by 30% in recent years and it is ridiculously cheap.
Santa Teresa is now a great place to stay. The favelas have been closed, so it is perfectly safe to wander, and it is quite unspoilt, with narrow streets leading to great views and rickety old trams clattering around. The tram takes about ten minutes to reach downtown, otherwise taxis are plentiful and cheap. You can walk to the metro station at Catete in twenty minutes and get to Ipanema in another twenty. There is a small supermarket with friendly owners five minutes walk from Casa Aurea and it has an ATM which happily accepts European debit cards.
Room Tip: Ask for en suite. Some rooms have shared bathrooms, though these are kept spotless.
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This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC
