Spent 4 days and three nights at this rustic island retreat owned by the Kuna Yala of San Blas, Panama.

The accommodations were clean and better than expected; outdoor, private showers and functional toilets in each cabana. Balconies strung with hammocks overlooking the tropical waters. No beaches, rocky, drop-off shores. No screens, no locks, no air conditioning, no fans, no electricity during the day.

Meals were served 3 times daily, and each meal a surprise. I am not a large eater, but found myself hungry between meals. One breakfast consisted of a scrambled egg, two hot dogs and sliced cucumber. Others contained toast and orange or banana slices. Lunches were usually a cooked vegetable and slice of lunchmeat. One "special" lunch involved crab meat mixed with lime and an unknown chopped vegetable that tasted spoiled. 24 hours later I developed gastrointestinal symptoms. Drinks other than coffee or water cost extra. I paid $ 3.00 for a specially requested coconut, when coconuts abound in the region and the marketable rate is $ 0.12.

Tours consisted of a motorboat jaunt to the nearby islands for a walk around in the blazing sun to view needlework displayed in the sand. I love "molas" and purchased several for $ 20-30 dollars each. Was expected to pay for any pictures taken, including scenic snapshots not involving any of the local personages. I was unaware of this at the time I snapped photos. The driver of the motor launch angrily argued with the tour guide and the matter was explained to me when I inquired as to what the discussion was about. I knew that if you wished to take photos of the Kuna people, the going rate was $ 2.00 - $ 3.00 per click of the camera but didn't realize it applied as well to photos of the beach and trees and distant huts.

On the night prior to my departure, the Kuna women who had attended to the meals and room service were very stand-offish and one "forgot" to return change from a $ 5.00 bill I used to pay for a $ 2.00 coca-cola. I was later told in confidence they were angry because I hadn't paid any gratuities during my stay. (My travel agent had advised me the cost of the booked tour was all-inclusive). I was planning to give gratuities the following day at breakfast prior to my departure, as I always do in similar situations. The same source advised that not only were the maids and meal-servers anticipating tips, but the launch driver and tour guide as well. I assured the informant that I would be making appropriate payments the next day at breakfast. I did so and was given a friendly send-off as I boarded the launch that morning. The tour guide accompanied me to the airstrip, and as I boarded the plane, I handed him a folded piece of paper with currency inside. I had written a brief thank-you note on the paper. The tour guide looked down at the folded paper, and apparently believing this was all he'd be receiving, scowled outright and then glared directly into my eyes. I smiled back and boarded the plane, discouraged and painfully aware I would never plan another trip to this location, despite its inherent beauty.

I've been to the San Blas Islands twice. My first visit was to Dolphin Island. It is rustic, but, has all the amenities you really need. It was great to finally get away from the rat race and enjoy nature. The Kuna Indians are a very friendly people. Although they did not speak a lot of english we were able to communicate are wants and needs. We went snorkling, fishing, into the coastal jungle, and sailing. Really enjoyed each one of our excursions. The Island Chief and I became friends. By the way, his name was Geronimo. Ain't that something! When we left on the forth day he gave me a beautifully carved walking stick as a token of friendship. The food was excellent!! The lobster stew was really great! Make a point to eat some of that when you visit. Would I visit Dolphin Island again?

Yes, in half a heartbeat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Joe

This eco resort (formerly known as the Dolphin Lodge) is operated by the Kuna Indians of the San Blas Islands, just off the coast of Panama. Six of us flew from Panama City (about 40 minutes or so) and landed at the Aeropuerto de Mamitupu--a tiny little landing strip with a bamboo hut. We were met by our Kuna guide Geronimo, loaded into a motor boat, and whisked about 5 minutes away to a 1 acre island in the Caribbean.

The eco resort takes up most of the island, and a few Kuna huts fill in the rest (that's where the staff stays with their families). The resort consists of gorgeous palm trees, soft grass, and about 10 bamboo structures, all perched right on the edge of the island so that the sea is nearly lapping on your back porch--a great spot to relax is in the two hammocks hanging there. Each structure (I guess you could say "hut") has 2 beds, night tables, a bathroom with flush toilet and septic system, and a very cool shower that is partly open
to the sky. There is no hot water but the cool water feels great after a day in the sun anyway. There are a few electric overhead lights but no AC. When the ocean breezes are blowing it's great. When it's still outside, the rooms become saunas. We left the front and back doors wide open one night but still didn't get much of a breeze. That was the only tough part of the stay. Well, there were swarms of little biting bugs at the landing strip on our way home too, but we should have applied bug spray!

There is also an open air dining hall right on the water where we were served all 3 meals...delicious! Fresh fruit and fresh seafood caught daily. They have soft drinks, beer, wine, and liquor available for purchase.

A Kuna women's cooperative runs a small handicraft booth at the resort, and we bought some beautiful molas at great prices.

A larger Kuna village is just across the water from the resort--maybe a 3 minute boat ride away. We visited there twice, and especially loved seeing the school and bringing school supplies to the principal. The guide suggested we buy candy from him to give to the kids, but judging from the cavity-ridden teeth we saw, we decided this was not a good plan and stuck with school supplies. We plan to send more later (we are teachers in the US).

We also visited a nearby deserted island with a great white sand beach and palm trees. Later we went to another village--the largest--a few islands away. They live primatively but are so cheerful as well as proud of their culture.

This was our best experience in our 2 weeks in Panama, and I would visit this eco lodge again in a heartbeat. It seemed like I was on a movie set--so perfect and seemingly undiscovered. We swayed in hammocks and watched the Kunas paddle their canoes out to see to fish. It was total relaxation!