We just returned from a week's vacation in KK, and whilst there, we took a side-trip to Pulau Tiga, an island off the coast of Malaysia and stayed at the Borneo Survivor Resort. From what was meant to have been a day's visit turned out to be a night stop-over - we were so taken back with the place, we wanted to experience staying on the island overnight. This was certainly not regretted, even if it meant loosing out staying in our 5 Star hotel in town for one evening.
KK itself is laid back and unhurried, well, certainly compared to Hong Kong, where we live, but Survivor Resort was something else! Its a very new resort, been up and running for about 18 months to two years or so, and is slowly developing. There is one 'kampong' style chalet that sleeps three persons (see photo), and another ‘long-house’ block that consists of six rooms, each room sleeps six, and each with their own toilet and shower facilities. All accommodation are air-conditioned, and the Resort’s electricity is run from its own generators. We stayed in the chalet that was comfortably equipped and even had tea making facilities! I understand that more chalets will be built shortly as part of the management’s expansion plans. More of this later.
Upon landing on the pier after the 30 minutes boat ride from the mainland, you see the beach and the rainforest, but no buildings! We had to strain your eyes looking for the resort. Are we in the right place??? Its only once you get off the pier and make your way towards the jungle undergrowth that you have sight of the main building neatly tucked in amongst the trees behind the beach. Incidentally, the Borneo Survivor resort is located in the same spot (Tagi Beach) where the “Tagi Tribe” of the first CBS Survivor series, "SurvivorBorneo" screened in 2000, camped out. The main building houses the reception and dining and lounging facilities, with the kitchen facilities at the rear. Its really more of a large covered shelter, with a high ceiling to let the breeze through, and is open on three sides to get the maximum potential out of the view of the jungle.
After a lovely lunch the resort staff arranged a guided 45-minute trek to the mud volcano bath which was a wonderful experience. En-route, take in all the flora and fauna – the environment. Stimulate your senses – smell, touch, see and listen to the rainforest. It was so refreshing! Arriving at the mud-volcano we shed our top clothes and slid into the mud wearing our swim wear. This was fun and well worth experiencing! Have you ever floated on watery mud whilst volcanic air pockets are slowly bubbling around you?? It’s a must try – why spend all that money on a mud face-mask when you can get your whole body caked?? Don’t forget to bring your camera for those fun snap shots, as well as some water and a clean small towel cloth (to wipe your eyes in case you get some of the mud in your eyes). Upon returning back to the resort, other excursions we had on that first day involved a short ten minute boat ride to ‘Snake Island’ where the guide pulls out sea-snakes from under the rocks (for some unknown reason, these sea snakes travel thousands of miles to this small island to breed. National Geographic has even made a documentary on the snakes and eagles on the island). From here, we traveled a few minutes by boat to the nearby sand-spit for a swim. This sand spit was also featured in “SurvivorBorneo” as a number of the challenges were held on it. This was fun to be on too! Had we stayed longer, I may have arranged a ‘romantic dinner’ on the sandbar whilst watching the most spectacular sunset. Apparently the resort staff have dropped off couples there before and left them there with food, marooned for a few hours!
By mid afternoon we had to make a decision – shall we go, or shall we stay?? We decided to stay the evening – We were so much in love with the place! As we were the only ones at the resort we got the use of the chalet and then we had time to explore the beach that was all part of the resort grounds (apparently includes 30 acres of jungle and beach front). The majority of the beach was generally clean and there were plenty of nature’s gifts left there - sea shells, drift wood etc., though the more secluded end of the beach still had a few plastic bottles and other man-made objects which had yet to be cleared away. I was told by the management that they have basically left the top end untouched since they are currently focusing on the main part of the beach, though they will slowly make their way around to clearing it up, in-line with their expansion plans. I preferred it as it was – it gave a more of a rough and natural feel to the place; more of that ‘deserted island feel’, rather than that too-clean and cosmetic beach feel you get in those more touristy places.
The meals were all prepared by the on-site local chef; very good and tasty - all locally used products. For lunch we had the freshest and tastiest steam fish that I have ever come across. The is no ‘choice’ from a menu, per-se, but in all fairness, we didn’t ask for a menu since we were happy to take what was put in front of us. I’m sure if you ask, and if you give sufficient time, they could prepare something at your request. Remember that everything has to be brought in from the local town on the mainland so don’t ask for anything too elaborate!
Afternoon soon turned to dusk, and into evening. Enter a different world. The jungle sounds echoed around, the lapping of the sea shore – the distant lights of the mainland Sabah. After dinner the staff pulled out their fishing tackle and invited us to fish for squid. We stepped our way along the wooden pier into the darkness and started to fish. Having noticed the incredibly cloudless night sky it soon dawned on us that we were experiencing one of the most clearest evenings since childhood! The sky was so brilliantly lit up with the stars it was truly magical. We put down the fishing kits and lied on the jetty star glazing, whilst the staff were pulling in their large squid catches. Reluctantly after a couple of hours we made out way back to the main building where the deliciously cooked squid were already waiting for us. Prepared straight away by the chef, caught fresh from the sea. They cooked them wonderfully well! What a treat!
After a comfortable night, we enjoyed a very tasty breakfast (Malaysian noodles and home-made banana fritters you would die for) then spent the morning basking in the sun, beach strolling and swimming. Around midday, a group of three backpackers arrived by boat (they apparently met up in Kula Lumpur only a few days before, and decided to fly to Sabah together to spend three days at the resort). One was equipped with a guitar. Selfishly, we felt that they were intruding on OUR island – fortunately we didn’t see much of them as they had a lunch then made off to the mud volcano bath. The staff had put up three tents at their request - as they said they would prefer to camp out, rather than stay in the lodgings. The staff told us that, on request, they could set up camp fires on the beach. I imagined the three backpackers sitting around a camp fire, cold beer in hand and humming along with the guitar player.
After lunch and another walk on the beach, camera in hand to capture and bring back the beauty of the island, we were voted off (!!) and it was time to go. We felt invigorated and relaxed. It was indeed very sad leaving the island and a promise to ourselves was made to return, one day in the near future.
Borneo Survivor Resort is a place to relax, unwind and do nothing. If you are a ‘city folk’, then its comfortable enough to feel as if you are roughing it out. You have to take the place as it comes – remember, that the place is just starting out. It doesn’t claim to provide five-star accommodation, but it doesn’t need to. The natural and unspoiled environment and the most genuine, friendly and helpful staff is all that you need. You MUST visit and experience it BEFORE it is discovered by others and the resort expands. What I was most impressed about was that there was a deliberate attempt by the management to try and leave as much of the environment untouched as possible. In getting started they didn’t bring in the bulldozers, wiping out dozens of trees in the process. They merely made a few small necessary clearings for the few building they erected, and that was it. Paths are left unpaved and even a tree is left to grow through the hut, rather than cut it down. This place will gradually expand, and over time, will certainly become a popular place to visit - speaking to the staff there, they intend to only develop incrementally, and slowly. They do have plans to erect a few more kampong style chalets, whilst retaining as much of the natural environment as possible, and that they will leave as much of the tropical rain forest intact as possible.
What you must bring – your swim wear, insect repellent and a camera.
If you seek peace and quiet, when enquiring on availability, do ask if another group or ‘large’ party is there during the time you intend to be there, otherwise your stay will be spoiled with the ‘disturbances’. If you can get the place to yourselves, or share it with only a few others, then I promise, you would not regret visiting. Visit before others discover!
Had a great time and I'd recommend it to all.
- Borneo Survivor Hotel
