I have to agree with the review by decca_mac, unfortunately we had the former experience.

Travelling in Japan for 3 weeks we try to temper cheap hotels with a few special ones. The Kanaya was supposed to be a special one and in a way it was. The lobby is beautiful and you feel like you've stepped back in time to the hotel's heyday when the guest list read like a who's who from the Western and Japanese world. The hotel pays homage to some of these guests with displays of letters, photos and copies of pages from the registration book with the names of their esteemed guests. There is a also room full of glass cases displaying some of the hotel items used many years ago - it's a little like a museum.

So for anyone interested in history and fusion architecture it is a truly wonderful example for the period. And the garden is equally as lovely.

The staff are amazing and were always there to help, whether it's finding you an umbrella in the rain, or changing the pick up time for the car at the hire company, everything was done efficiently and with a smile. At the moment I have to say it's the staff that breathe life into the old girl.

Now to the disappointing bit. The room we had was 2 floors above the lobby overlooking the car park (which was a surprisingly pleasant view). It was old, tired and in desperate need of renovation. And I don't mean it needs modernisation, but it really needs some sympathetic treatment with respect to it's history. There are certainly ways of restoring a grand hotel like this to make it less musty, worn and aged. I find it rather sad that it has been let go when it has some truly wonderful original features.

The single beds were comfortable, but the covers were shabby. The furniture was old, but I suspect not from the period. Perhaps from a revamp mid last century. The fabric on the chairs was shiny from wear. And yes the old steam heating system was there. My husband started it up and the knocking noise it made was frightening, and took about 10 minutes to subside after he turned it off.

The bathroom had been updated at some point, but not very well. No matter how authentic I cannot stand shower curtains - they feel cheap, not to mention unhygienic.

We did not eat dinner in the restaurant as we considered it way too expensive, so went to the steakhouse as other reviewers have done. We were also very impressed with the hen of the woods mushrooms. A must try!

As it was raining when we were there we did not feel like trying our luck in the town for breakfast, so paid the exorbitant hotel prices. The service was impeccable, it was lovely using the old silverware, and the food was good, however that did not stop us from thinking it was way overpriced.

We also had the internet connected up in our room via the telephone outlet by a very kind and efficient staff member. But because of the particular set up required there were cables running everywhere. Not particularly safe as far as trip hazards are concerned but at least it worked.

The old bar was small, cozy and wonderfully atmospheric, but a single drink each was all we could afford. And was all we had time for. The bar tender seems most preoccupied with the four guests at the bar, and I must say they were the only other guests in the room, and took at least 20 minutes or more to bring us the hotel's special cocktail and a beer.

Surprisingly the souvenier shop had some very reasonably priced items, so it's worth a look if you want to take something special away with you.

The Kanaya has the best location for seeing the temples, so is ideally situated for sightseeing at Nikko. If you arrive by train, I would guess it's a considerable walk. We took a taxi as the rain and our luggage were not a good combination.

I really have a hard time rating this hotel because I want to love it, and I really do think it can be the grand old lady again, if only someone would put in the effort to do so. In which case I am forced to say, try this hotel based on the knowledge that if you pay a lot of money, you might get a half decent room, but then again, you might not.