Reading other reviews before I write my own, it occurred to me, that Lunuganga IS for everyone, that is, everyone should visit it at least once because it gives a glimpse of how life could be, should be, (albeit in possibly an ideal Arcadian world), the sweeping lawns cut out of an old rubber plantation bought by Sri Lanka’s most widely known Architect, (Geoffrey Bawa), in 1948. Bawa’s man-made interventions of clearings, stairs, terraces overlooking vistas, ha-ha’s and various shelters to engage with various parts of the property in the face of the fecund growth of the tropical rain forest are simple yet deeply poetic.
(NB: Lunuganga is a noteworthy omission from the book: “1001 Gardens: You must see before you die,” – such a silly titled book anyway!)…And it is all the better for you the reader, discovering this special place via other research…
Aasha and Michael, who are both Architects themselves, (and who both worked for Bawa when he was alive), and a more recent addition to the management team: Damien, (who used to manage tea plantations in the North of Sri Lanka), are all endeavouring to preserve and enhance this fragile piece of environment in a holistic and compelling way for the enjoyment of one and all. They, along with all the house boys, chefs and all the various labourers provide an amazingly soft and generous spirit to the place, where nothing seems too much trouble, (from providing fresh limejuices to quench ones thirst to an amazing array of daily curries, to a wake-up on my door when I slept 80 winks instead of 40…as was going to miss my meal!). Thank you one and all!
I travelled down to Lunuganga from Colombo on the train, (which was ridiculously cheap), and then happily haggled in an “in your-face” Tuk-tuk driver, (500 SLR in August 2011), to take me the 15 minutes or so along various non-signposted roads to the property. These journeys provide the contrast that the peace and tranquility that Lunuganga provides the arriving traveler. (In my humble opinion this option is much better than getting a driver and a car – which seems to be the norm from most of tourists in Sri Lanka – save that for more inaccessible regions).
The welcome was unique – no “check in,” no hassle about passports – they knew my name, the house boy told me to dump my bag at the house door and come out onto the terrace verandah overlooking Dedduwa Lake and relax with a ice-cold limejuice, before Damien came and introduced himself with a warm welcome. (NB. other places of accommodation should look and learn to treat people as humans…not passport numbers).
I had chosen the Glass Room as my abode, and it was an amazing feeling to have read about the property, viewed the photographs in the books over many years, and then upon opening the copper green painted Portuguese entry doors – it was mine! (Albeit for 2 nights…lol…). The long light filled room with a four-poster bed with its mosquito net drapes was indeed a welcome nest. (It has to be said the shower is from its original time, but I took that as a genuine Bawa “time warp” detail, and it was still wonderful to stand under a stream of water and cool off).
The lunches and evening dinners, (in the gloom of flicking kerosene watering-can like lamps were very atmospheric), the food was simply the BEST and in such generous portions. Breakfasts were also particularly wonderful: fresh orange-red papaya, pineapple, bananas, that lovely creamy yoghurt that Sri Lanka seems to specialize in, followed by toast and jam and a choice of coffee or tea…all whilst you watch the morning awake over the Lake. Thank you all to the Cook staff! (Would love to come back and be allowed into the kitchens and watch you cook, as it seems to me Sri Lankan cuisine is much under-rated. Perhaps one day there might be scope to do cooking visits?)
Next day I was given my own tour of the property by Aasha and Damien, humbling to get such personal treatment and indeed felt honoured to be allowed to hear the detail behind the spirit of this place through these two generous people. Also felt rather accepted when the resident Bulbul, would flit into its nest not 2m away whilst I ate lunch on the Verandah, or one of the house dogs would flop against my chair in the afternoon heat, with an accompanying sigh…
They even organized a tour for me over to “Brief” (Geoffrey Bawa’s brother: Bevis’s house and garden), which was a one hour Tuk-tuk ride, along rather ancient roads and lanes, but they had given me an extremely patient driver who went slowly over or around the many potholes. Worth a visit too –if only in contrast to Lunuganga…
The final morning Damien gave me an individual boat ride around the lake, (including the Carpet of Lotus flowers), pointing out the various local bird-life and explaining the situation of Lunuganga within the context of its neighbouring properties and the long-term plans of the Lunuganga Trust. Again, a warm thank you Damien for your time!
But don’t listen to me rave on about Lunuganga…GET a plane ticket to Sri Lanka and BOOK today…. then find out for yourself!...isn’t travel about “Being There” or in the case of Lunuganga, perhaps: “There Being”
(The only regret I have: I never got to meet Michael – who was away on business – but who sent me many helpful emails both before and after my visit). Thank you Michael…perhaps when I revisit we can share limejuice together?
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC