Having stayed here in January, it was my seconde visit to Goa. The first had been several years before, in what was then a well kept Highland Beach (although a visit this year shows it has fallen into disrepair a little.)

Big Daddys is located down a little dirt track just off the main road, across from the Fishermans Cove restaurant. Its a small guesthouse type property, and like all accomodation in Candolim, it is basic. If your expectations are realistic however, it is a great little place to stay. You can access the beach by cutting through a residential area to your left, over a short stretch of open (cool!) sand, until you reach some shacks, you'll find yourself just a few minutes up from being level with the (possibly now removed) river princess.

our room, which was by far the best in the house, faces out to the street, i think it was number 6. the room is small, but benefits from a powerful, mostly hot shower, in a clean wetroom type layout. the main room has very little wardrobe space, but there is plenty of floorspace to lay your suitcase flat and live out of it, like i always do!

there was a small fridge freezer, a tv with satelite, some bedside cabinets and a table, as well as plenty of lights. the beds, by indian standards, were very good, a firm but thick mattress and big soft pillows.

the most attractive feature of the room by far was the big balcony, on which we spent a substational amount of time. the sun rose beautifully in the morning from behind the trees, the guesthouses we looked onto were pretty, brightly coloured and quiet, and we could both sit comfortably having a drink and spotting kingfishers.

the staff consisted of our landlord Vinay, a young guy with a big smile who was very obliging, and a couple of lovely room boys, who cleaned every day, always said hello, and were great at keeping watch during the night (they slept on the property).

although we were b&b we mostly ate at a shack about 15 minutes away (seaview) which is the best of several i have tried. on a couple of occasions we had tea, toast and jam at the hotel which was typical of what you would expect.

in regards to candolim itself, if you have never been to goa before i expect it is a good place to start. many find calungute too busy & frightening, and although places like panjim & baga must be seen, candolim provides a relaxed base with plenty of good food and a pleasant stretch of beach. trips you shouldnt miss are the waterfalls (complete with hilarious 4x4 journey), and the night market, which is packed full of tibetan silver, spices, silks & a charming fellow who makes a very deadly tequila shot.

in candolim, a few places worth trying are as mentioned seaview (poached eggs, fresh fruit, daal, hot & sour soup) mango grove (tikka masala, prawn curry) fishermans cove (tikka and roti) green jacket (steak to die for!!) for most things from cigarettes to suntan lotion, the elephant shop is great and the man who works there (i think michael) is very helpful.

there is a jewellers at the top of the beach road on the right called white dove, and it is the best i have been to in all my travels. the owner, bashir, is talented and wont rip you off, their quality of stones and workmanship are truly great and their pieces are unusual and gorgeous. i had the fortune of getting a gorgeous golden topaz and diamond ring made, as well as a black diamond one, and some beautiful topaz earrings. the tailor next door is also very good and can copy most things, i got a replica of my fav dress made in silk, and also a traditional churidar in a beautiful teal beaded material.

newtons the supermarket is on the main road you cant miss it, so stop in here for home comforts (my friend even bought some nandos sauce here!)

your money goes a long way, and as a rule of thumb, i always negotiatate about 30% lower. its a busy and often frantic place and you have to learn fast, but if you are respectful, firm and friendly, you will have no problems.

candolim is beautiful and really quite special, i am returning january of next year and count down the days. from someone well travelled, this is the place to go if you really want to "see somewhere".