When we arrived in Luang Prabang, we stayed a night each at 2 other guesthouses (Muonglao @ $20 - good value, but a bit of a hike from the main drag) & 1 on Khem Khong on the Mekong stretch (forgotten its name) @ $16 - also good value but very poor layout bathroom-wise. We decided to lash out for a few days and settled on Thatsaphone - $30 for an upstairs room. The location's perfect - quiet but very central - just 50m.from the action on Sisavangvong. Our room spotless, with very elegant furniture, crisp linen and a comfortable( !) bed. The adjoining balcony is perfect for the evening G&T, overlooking the neighbouring beautiful & typical LP buildings - slightly decaying thatched or rusty gal iron roofs, woven bamboo or limewashed plaster walls with colourful shutters & nicely detailed teak timberwork. You get the picture. Thatsaphone's small garden's great for relaxing over the modest but perfectly adequate breakfast included in the room price. Free internet in the reception area and very competent and pleasant staff. However, the place does still seem to be suffering from the water supply problems described by other reviewers. Warm enough for a shower, but tends to cut out completely at inconvenient moments such as when you've got a whole headful of shampoo lather, resulting in an undignified, dripping but necessary wander downstairs to report the situation to Reception. Insignificant, though, when you look at what else you're getting. By the way, I'd go along with a previous contributor who suggested that you shouldn't panic if you don't have a hotel lined up before you hit town - even in peak season. Just find your way to Khem Khong (near Ounkham Road for example) and comb the waterfront and/or the backstreets & lanes up towards Sisavangvong. This is how we found Thatsaphone. The area is close to shops, restaurants & the Night Market, and there are dozens of accommodation possibilities in all price ranges. ( Don't think of it as being like tourist areas anywhere else. It's all very low-key and Lao.) You could probably leave your gear with one of the outdoor restaurants along the Mekong while you go hunting if you didn't want to lump it around with you.
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