For travelers who had the pleasure of knocking around Europe in the 60's, and stayed in the sort of hotel that European people stayed in for months at a time on holiday, this hotel will take you pleasurably back to large rooms (at least ours was), clean bottom sheets that aren't fitted, windows that actually open, and a real dining room with a grand piano. The furniture, while not antique or elegant, is made out of real wood. Our bathroom, instead of being stuck in a corner of the room itself, like so many of the made-over old pensions of modern Europe, if you can find one today, was cleverly tucked into what must have once been a large closet, so the room retained its original size. Aside from a comfortable, firm queen-sized bed, there was the (in the olden days) de rigeur table and chairs actually suitable for a meal. The television had plenty of European and British channels, and we had a nice view (albeit over some buildings) of the lovely mountains with which Sarajevo is surrounded.

The breakfast was creative, with many cold cereals, breads, jams, cheese, serve-yourself hot drinks and juice, and a different hot dish every one of the three mornings we were there. Again like the old days, the other guests, whether Bosnian or foreigners, nodded and said good morning to later arrivals. Dinners were a little pricy for our budget, so we didn't eat dinner there, but the breakfasts, especially the several varieties of fresh bread and fruit, were always satisfying. There was one individually packaged spread that contained pork, which was not immediately apparent, so if you have dietary restrictions you should ask the waiter. There was only the one spread; the sausages were chicken!

We especially appreciated the numerous live plants that were everywhere, nicely cared for and with shiny clean leaves. A special touch is the mat in the tiny elevator that is changed every day - it has the day of the week woven into it, in English!

The location is quiet, with no traffic noise reaching the hotel at night. A brief walk gets you to the tram lines, which circumnavigate the city, and coming home at night was always a pleasure. The employees were friendly and helpful, ready with maps and advice. The price would have been reasonable anywhere, although not exactly cheap. When we return to Sarajevo we will stay there again. If you miss the quiet dignity of middle-class European travel, this is your place.