Traveling again in Ecuador, my wife and I returned to our favorite hotel in the whole world, Hotel Los Alpes, an economical and welcoming romantic home away from home. Perched halfway up the valley about 5 minutes cab ride (US$2 in 2011) from Quito’s colonial Centro Historico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it hides behind rich greenery off a quiet side street near the former US Embassy. A set of cow bells rigged to the heavy wooden front door announces entry into a paneled front lobby and den with fireplace and bar. The Italian proprietor, Don Claudio, and his wife have filled every wall and nook with marvelous relics, porcelains, antique clocks and an eclectic collection of paintings, each piece with a story if you can, and you should, afford the time. The wood staircase creaks on the way to the dozen rooms upstairs and the solarium overlooking a tile-roof courtyard. We prefer sleeping in the back, with the window wide open in order to watch the changing light on 4000 meter Volcan Pinchincha. With easy walking or cheap taxi access to the most interesting end of the city. The best part: upon each return, enjoying the warm but sophisticated hospitality of the owner, bellman/bartender and intimate in-house restaurant. Included breakfast, WIFI, well-traveled clientele and unlimited charm.
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