Arugam bay was a real highlight for us on a 6 week trip around sri lanka.

SL seems to be a bit rip-off these days, compared with our last trip here in 2004, with silly prices for food and accommodation, especially in the south, south-east and near the "safari" zones. But Arugam bay restored our faith. It's one of the last refuges of backpackers in the country (along with crazy hikkaduwa) and we had a real relaxing time here mixed with some exciting cycling journeys along the coast towards Panama village.

We stayed at Beach Hut, always busy even out of season, we learned. Cheap rooms and genuinely great food.

The main beach area is not the tropical beauty of, say, Thailand or malaysia, but that's more or less the case for all of sri lanka where the waves are generally enormous (ok if you're a surfer) and the beaches steep, not to mention strewn with plastic rubbish. Arugam beach was also a fishing beach which, apart from the inevitable scattered rubbish, made it all the more interesting.

Nearby trips can be made to Pottuvil town and, further north, Pottuvil point, a popular surfer hangout in season but almost completely empty when we visited. Be careful swimming here due to currents from the lagoon (even if it looks very picturesque). Also Panama village, south of arugam, is possible by bicycle or tuktuk where the journey itself is great, rather than the village which is ok for some food and drinks. An English guy has bought up the land encompassing the point so the current peace may or may not change in future. at the moment there is only a restaurant and a few basic huts at the point itself but I guess this is a busy place in surfing season. The caretaker, sidike, is a wealth of local info and good company for a chat. it's a lonely job he has!

Food is available from the guest houses or restaurants along the main road running behind the beach. We ate in the Beach Hut most nights as it was reasonably priced and very good Indian food.