If a bamboo hut on a deserted beach on a remote island sounds like Nirvana, then the Quan Lan Eco Resort is the place for you.

Getting to Quan Lan Island is an adventure in and of itself. There is a local ferry at 1.30pm from Halong City to Quan Lan Island which is the third stop on a 4 hour cruise which takes you through the dramatic karst waterscape of Halong Bay and Bai Tu Long. The higher price that a foreigner pays for the ferry is quite official and not an unauthorised rip-off. Be aware that the gangplank onto (and off) the ferry is narrow and has no handrail. I asked for, and received, helping hands to assist me (I have a mobility handicap) and survived without falling off into the water!

There will probably be a tuk tuk at the dock, but the resort is only about 1km away. Locally it is known by the ATI name. From the road you walk on a brick path up and over a couple of wooded sand dunes to the reception building.

The individual huts are scattered throughout the property. The one I had was facing the beach, about 10m from the water at high tide and 100m at low tide. I fell asleep to the lullaby of the surf and the wind whispering through the Tamarack trees.

The hut had two double beds, equipped with warm comforters - which was needed in April, especially considering the many cracks in the fabric of the hut which allowed the breeze off the water inside. A mosquito net and coil in the room lead me to believe that this might be an issue at some time of year, but not in April. Electricity inside the hut is available only between 5.30 pm and 9.30 pm. Taking a flashlight (or headlight) with you is absolutly essential. There is neither TV nor a phone in the room, air conditioning is achieved by opening the windows and doors and getting a through draft. The bathroom has a "drain in the floor" type shower (no enclosure, no curtain), where everything gets wet and slippery. There was no hot water when I was there bcause to water is heated by solar power, and it had been overcast with some rain for days prior to my arrival. No sun - no hot water!

The restaurant is under cover but open on three sides. The fish at dinner was excellent, but, probably because of the remoteness of the island, expensive by Vietnamese standards. Breakfast was not included in the room rate and the only choice was an uninspiring bowl of noodles. There is a village not very far away, within easy walking distance, and you can get fresh fruit and snacks there and then skip the restaurant breakfast.

You can rent a bicycle and ride around the island (12km), walk on the long, deserted, sandy beach or just find a place to curl up with a good book. A fellow guest who went swimming reported the water temperature to be "refreshing". There were just 4 guests at the resort the night I was there, all of us overseas tourists looking for peace and quiet.

I paid $30 for my room as a single. I would definately recommend staying two nights, giving yourself one complete day at the resort, as a minimum stay.

If you leave the island on the ferry to Cai Rong which is a further 2 1/2 hours through some of the most fantastic, sureal scenery in the world, you really do not need to "do" the Halong Bay cruise. Another scary gangplank to be negotiated! From Cai Rong it is 1 1/2 hours by local bus to Halong City, thus completing what has to be the most incredibly scenic loop tour anywhere. Or, you could get the early morning ferry back to Halong City and be in Hanoi by late afternoon.