As someone who is not much of a ‘lunch person’, especially in hot weather, I wondered if we had done the right thing in pre-booking lunch at the Labourdonnais Waterfront as part of an excursion around the northern part of the island during a recent holiday in Mauritius. And, after several hours spent visiting the Pamplemousse Gardens, Cap Malheureux (the northernmost point of Mauritius), the tourist harbour of Grande Baie, and finally the crowded streets of Port Louis, I felt much more like a cold beer than a hot lunch.

But perceptions began to change as we entered the elegant lobby of this magnificent hotel. Done out in black marble and white tiles with gold trim here and there, it was a cool refuge from the early afternoon heat and humidity. There was also a sparkling-clean washroom with real towels, so I was feeling a good deal better when I eventually headed for that much-needed beer.

Even before I reached the table, however, the height and width and quiet elegance of the air-conditioned dining room was another factor in the overall experience, managing to convey an impression of old-world splendour in what is actually a very modern building. The feeling was complemented by the table set with heavy linen and solid cutlery and the waterfront views from the nearby window, so that, when that tall cool beer arrived, it was more than enough to convince my digestive system that maybe this was going to be worth making an exception over.

It was. My selection started with a terrine of smoked marlin bound with rice and chives in a lime mayonnaise, followed by a main course of Mauritian lamb. Normally that is not a good choice, because lambs seem to get a lot of exercise climbing around those sharp-pointed mountains and as a result produce meat that, though flavoursome, is rather tough. This one must have led a sheltered life, because it was deliciously tender, and cooked to perfection in a tasty Mauritian sauce that was spicy and piquant but not overwhelmingly so. Another excellent Phoenix beer helped, too, and an array of fresh tropical fruit and coffee were all that was needed to make me a convert to lunch again.

I cannot speak for the hotel itself, but if the quality of food and service, the excellence of the location, and the elegant atmosphere of its restaurant are anything to go by, its claim to be to top hotel in Port Louis has to be taken seriously.