We stayed at small Riad Zehar for 3 days after traveling in comfort through the Atlas Mountains and to Merzouga for an overnight in the dunes. We were the only guests the first night and were given our choice of rooms. Fatima was very warm and welcoming, though my limited French made for challenging communications. Samira stopped by and made sure our needs were fully being met. The next day, Fatima generously did lots of laundry for us at no additional charge. We really felt like we were welcome guests into a home. The next day, two other travelers arrived. They were smokers, which threatened to totally change our experience as non-smokers. When I reluctantly mentioned this to Samira, having anticipated that we would encounter more smoking in Morocco than we're used to, she immediately offered to have them smoke only on the rooftop, which they graciously did. One of the two, self-described southern Moroccans, also made a point of apologizing to me, which wasn't at all necessary. This potential conflict was so beautifully handled by Samira and the other guests. We were able to leave most of our belongings at the riad while making a weekend trip by bus to Essouira. When we returned for our last 2 days in Morocco, Samira explained that she was moving us to Riad Reves d'orient, just down the street, where we would be more comfortable as a group of smokers was due to arrive at Riad Zehar. We knew this was a more expensive accommodation and we were only charged what we had booked at Zehar. Over and over, we were extremely well taken care of by Samira, Fatima and the other staff. And both lovely riads are on quiet streets in the Medina a short walk from the souks and Jemaa al Fna.
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