In search of a destination that was both remote and affordable (a thousand each for five nights, incl. airfare and meals), we came upon a write up in Conde Nast Traveller for the 60 Best Islands. The Bay Islands were featured for August with special mention of West Peak Inn for the traveler looking for a Robinson Crusoe type experience. We didn't know what to expect. After a four-plane journey - not as bad as it sounds, honest - we were picked up at the only airstrip in Guanaja by David, the dreamer behind WP, and his manager and dear friend, Greg. We sped off in an impressive speed boat through a heartbreaking, post Hurricane Mitch canal to the west side of the island, and then southward to the property by the western tip.

We were the only guests. The three other cottages were occupied by the hardworking staff, always friendly, always available. The main bar is where everyone congregates as there's nothing on the island but beach, mountains, and a couple of private residences carved into the wilderness. Locals motor up for a visit and a drink almost every day. David, Jeanne and their staff hold court in the bar serving drinks and sharing stories. Our cottage was lovely, an elevated hexagonal teak(?) cabin with a double bed, a single, and a baby's crib with mosquito net. There is a full bathroom with tile shower. There is no hot water but as the sun warms the pipes during the day, this is not a problem. The entire property is run on solar power so it's comfortable but conservation is important. The cabin is clean and comfortable. The large windows, one on each wall, are lined with excellent screens. The result of the layout is the feeling that you're sleeping outdoors without any of the discomfort of sleeping outdoors. Our 6 days were sunny everyday and rainy every night. Sleeping to the steady rain. It was perfect.

Included in the daily rate are three square meals prepared by Carmen, an exceptional chef, who stands at the corner of the bar and blows a conch shell to announce mealtimes. The meals were always a fantastic surprise, easily worth the price all by themselves. We were never dissatisfied or hungry between meals.

The beach is near white sand and is well maintained directly in front of the Inn. The rest of the beach further north tends to be pebbly and there's an issue with sand flies. They do their best to keep it under control but it's imperative that you bring plenty of good bug repellant. The water is perfect, warm, clear, and bathtub like. Romel our guide took us to two areas for snorkeling ($25).

The amount of sea life that you see is not as plentiful as some places (Mexico), but the type of ocean life is varied and fascinating. The underwater landscape alternates with extremes of very deep areas and very shallow ones. There are probably other areas that have more exciting snorkeling in Guanaja but they were not accessible for our time period and location. Romel and Rufino also took us on a hike of the mountains behind WP. They are very manageable for regular hikers and quite satisfying. Also included in the daily rate is unlimited use of sit-on-top kayaks.

The WP crew took us on a special trip to Bonacca, referred to as the Caye (KEY), the only town in Guanaja. This did not cost extra as they happened to be headed there for groceries. I was not so keen on the Caye. Very crowded, very homogenous. As an Asian American I was thrown by the curiosity with which I was observed, groups of children running yelling "Chino Chino." Not the most relaxing experience. But it's a must anyway.

The end of the dock in front of WP is the ideal place to watch spectacular sunsets and moon rises, a completely unemcumbered quiet experience. Amost a third of our pictures are of sunsets.

In short, if you're looking for somewhere to cut out, you're easy to please, and you want to go somewhere untouched by resorts and tourists, Guanaja and West Peak Inn are the place for you. Remember to bring lots of bug repellant (Off Deep Woods for Sportsmen), sun block (Anthelios), and a flashlight (to find your way to your cabin at night).