This was the first place we stayed on our honeymoon in May 2009. We flew in to Shannon Airport and, against the advice of my travel agent, drove straight to Dingle. Her worry was that we would have such a long drive coming straight off a lengthy flight, but it was definitely feasible. My BIGGEST regret about our entire honeymoon was that we didn't allot enough time for Dingle. (Okay, that sounds bad. I meant the town of Dingle, of course). Dingle Peninsula is, without a doubt, the most scenic spot, in my opinion, in all of Western Ireland. It's relatively small, but give yourself at least 2 full days. And, although extremely unnerving, I would also recommend traveling to Dingle via Conor Pass. It is hair-raising, but a once-in-a-lifetime journey with beautiful views.
We arrived in early afternoon on our first day, after an 8 hour flight, to the welcoming Emlagh House and its very pleasant owners. We walked in to a crackling fire in the lobby, traditional yet very tasteful and elegant decor, and the BEST shower I have ever had. Ever. After a one-hour nap to refresh ourselves from the flight, we went for some ice cream at Murphy's (a very wise decision) and then head out for a 'quick scoot' around Slea Head drive (perhaps not such a wise decision). Yes, we flew in to Shannon airport, got a little lost in the driving nightmare of Limerick, continued all the way to Dingle, traveled through Conor Pass, checked in, took a nap, had some ice cream, and THEN took Slea Head drive...all before sunset. Don't get me wrong, I would do it again, because we only had the one day and night in Dingle before we ventured off to Killarney. But what I would do differently, as I mentioned before, was stay at least two full days in Dingle.
Slea Head drive, to me, was Ireland brought to life. Every vision you've ever imagined when you've thought of the Irish countryside can be seen somewhere along Slea Head drive. Rolling fields, rock fences, ancient ruins, historic churches, winding roads, and an incredible ocean view. Postcard images from all angles. So, unlike we foolishly did, I beg of you to give yourself enough time to enjoy Dingle Peninsula - a must-see if you're in Ireland. And Emlagh House is a perfect base for doing this.
We stayed in the "Wild Garlic" room and it was wonderful. Each room has an adorable hand-painted sign on the door. The setting is so peaceful and makes you feel as though you're in the country, but you're actually a very quick walk away from the town center. We enjoyed a restful sleep and a delicious breakfast the next morning. The dining room has incredible views and there is a wide selection on the breakfast menu. The owners offered the use of their phone to confirm our Skellig Michael reservations the next day. And they will gladly help you with planning your activities in Dingle, if need be.
So, if you're in Dingle, I cannot recommend Emlagh House enough. And, if you're leaving Dingle and heading towards the Killarney area, might I suggest stopping at the magical Minard castle ruins on your way.
Room Tip: I highly doubt there is a 'bad room' in the place, but the 'Wild Garlic' room on the...
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