Renown for is cool breezes and proximity to thermal spas, Viterbo was the preferred summer resort of the ancient Roman patricians. Today it is a bustling, small city of narrow medieval streets with an urban rhythm keyed more to Rome than the surrounding countryside. But just beyond the city walls lies Podere dell'Arco, a superbly appointed B&B, beckoning the sophisticated traveler to a calm, friendly respite off the beaten trail.

La Strada Signorino leading to this exquisite hacienda is one of the most enchanted roads in the world. It is a narrow one-way passage carved about 6 meters deep into a soft stone plateau and shrouded above by the verdant foliage of Lazio. Upon arrival one discovers that the Podere also comprises a private equestrian center, discreetly separated from the hotel grounds by a line of tall cypress tress. The hotel is a lovingly renovated old country monastery with an enclosed courtyard and babbling fountain. The rooms or suites are distributed on three levels, each with its own landing and separate entrance. We stayed in Passione, a spacious, comfortable three-room attic suite furnished in authentic regional antiques.

After a long drive from Chianti, we were warmly greeted in the courtyard by the innkeeper, Anna, who checked us in and showed us to the room. Within minutes we were tranquilly lounging on the adjacent lawn alongside the large infinity swimming pool basking in the late afternoon sun. The sound of wind rustling the estate's trees was punctuated from time to time by the braying of horses in the nearby stables. A thick scent of lavender permeated the atmosphere. For the better part of the afternoon we were alone, joined briefly by an Italian couple on a weekend getaway from Rome. This is a place for adults. No rambunctious kids diving cannonball-style into the pool, shouting in the almost ubiquitous cacaphony of FrenchEnglishGermanDutch heard throughout many luxury resorts in Central Italy during the summer months.

Later Anna booked us a table at a very good restaurant in Vitberbo. (Driving the city's streets is like negotiating a maze. I strongly advise parking outside the walls, maybe at the train station, and walking into town ... unless you're partial to backing out of dead-end cobblestone alleys.) The next morning Anna prepared a breakfast of delicious homemade pastries and breads, seasonal fruit, and freshly made jams. Then we headed out for the day toward Caprarola to the tour the magnificent Villa Faranese -- 40 rooms of High Renaissance frescoes including some by Annibale Carracci. The renderings of ancient mythology provide an unforgettable almost psychedelic experience. Worth the price of admission, next time I'm bringing my iPod for some Hendrix or Trane.

Back at Podere dell'Arco we chilled out for the rest of the day and got to bed early in anticipation of Anna's breakfast the next morning. Fortified by a perfect double-espresso we collected our stuff & headed to Rome promising each other that we will definitely be coming back.

My daughter and I stayed two nights and wish we could have stayed two weeks! This was my first trip to Italy, and I'd go back again just to stay at Podere dell'Arco. Anna & Marco are remarkable hosts. We did not have a car, and they helped us with transportation, even making dinner reservations for us the first evening and taking us to the restaurant! Our room was "Purfumo" in the upper level of the 13th century farm home which has been completely restored with every modern day convenience, yet maintains the old world charm. The shuttered windows open to expose an amazing view, where I loved to sit in the window bench and see the glorious lavendar fields. The flowers were gorgious from the climbing roses to the enormous hydrengia pots made the patio a perfect setting for morning breakfast. Much of our time we spent simply enjoying the estate - the pool area was very large, clean and relaxing. We walked through the stable area to the lavendar fields and yet another path took us past vineyards and some of the horses.
We did walk into Viterbo, which was a ways, but manageable. The narrow road from the Etruscan era that leads to Podere dell'Arco is a beautiful walk and stately entrance to the property. Food was excellent, bedding and the size of our suite was excellent, and the hospitality Anna and Marco extend is excellent!

A wonderful place to stay, beautiful, quiet, with flowers everywhere and a big swimming pool. The hosts, Anna and Marco love the area and want to share with you the beauties of the surrounding. Follow their advices, you will discover nice historic sightseeings as well as good restaurants.
Podere dell'Arco is not only an hotel, but like the house of close friends who take care of you...
Brigitte & Yves, France

I found this place recommended in the Blue Guide on Central Italy, which has often proved to be a trustworthy source. Added to that the pictures on Podere dell Arco’s website and with great expectations I booked for a week.
The place was even more wonderful than we thought. Exterior and interior of the old farm are restored with great taste and with attention to detail as well (hand sewn curtains, percale bed linens).
The biggest asset however is the wonderful family that owns it. Their warm reception really made our stay very special. They have a 5* approach and left us nothing to wish for. Where do you find a B&B with self-catering apartments, a daily Italian newspaper and a breakfast that consists of exactly what you like and can be taken whenever and wherever you want it? Anna daily bakes fresh biscuits and cakes for breakfast. When I think back to the mornings under the pergola with cappuccino, slices of lavender cake and a nice chat with Anna I immediately want to return!
The region offers more sights than I expected. We got to see only the most important ones e.g. Tuscania, the Parco dei Mostri, and Palazzo Farnese because the lounge area and the pool proved to be an excellent way to enjoy the warm September weather and we simply couldn’t bring ourselves to leave the estate. We ended up prolonging our stay with another week and this is our third year coming back… In all this is the best B&B I’ve ever stayed in.