Ravello is a stunning place to visit, perhaps more peaceful and refined than some of the other Amalfi coastal towns: Hotel Graal is an excellent mid-range choice for a few days stay and warmly recommended.
The hotel is very conveniently situated near to the point where access by car to the lovely town of Ravello stops. On arrival, it may at first seem unprepossessing - apparently a low flat building with quirky ceramic tiles decorating its outside wall.
But looks are deceiving, and this second generation family owned and run hotel is built into the hillside, so reception is on the highest floor and the accommodation is on various levels below. We stayed for six nights towards the end of October so the season was coming to an end. (Curiously, all the local hotels quote the high season as ending at the end of October, but maybe there are deals to be done.)
We paid €115 per night for advance payment of six nights in a standard room but in fact found ourselves in Room 144 which is a superior room
This suited us very well. The view from the small balcony and indeed from the whole hotel was stunning. The room was comfortable, always spotlessly clean, the bed was at least king size and we slept very well each night. It’s all very, very peaceful apart from the occasional tolling of church clocks in the distance. Very occasionally a dog barks or a cock crows, but that’s it!
The style of the hotel is definitely smart Italian hotel decor of the 1960s, perhaps now a bit dated but none the worse for that. In our room there were immaculate tiles on the floor and the fittings were of good quality dark wood. The bathroom, also immaculate, had a Jacuzzi type shower - powerful and invigorating. There was multi-channel satellite TV, a mini bar with room in the fridge for other drinks and air-conditioning which we didn’t need. Housekeeping was unobtrusive and efficient.
Breakfast is served in a large special room on the 2nd floor with wonderful views of the coast below on which the sun shines in the mornings. It’s all a cold buffet: a good choice of cereals and yoghurts, excellent fresh bread and rolls and the usual meats and cheeses, plus fresh croissants and cakes made by the chef. Jams are home-made and the extensive offering of fruit is based on produce from the hotel’s own gardens. (Don’t be put off if it doesn’t all look uniformly graded as in a supermarket: the pears were delicious.) If you breakfast early enough you will find Ranieri the owner and his wife and children breakfasting quietly with you before they go off to school.
There are some good places to eat in Ravello and the hotel’s restaurant is one of them. Service was friendly and attentive, the food good and the bottles of local wine selected for us by the waiter were excellent and relatively inexpensive. Intermediate dishes are €8-12, main dishes are about E15=22: these prices are standard for Ravello where there are few if any inexpensive eating places apart from selecting pizza or a pasta dish from a larger menu. Ravioli, marinated fish, lemon chicken and mixed grilled fish were all very good. There seemed to be a set menu for anyone opting for half / full board, (we hadn’t) but although we asked about it, it was never offered. Perhaps for those guests staying on a B&B basis for more than a single night it would be good to offer it to them: the restaurant might do more trade. However it seemed to be a different profit centre (a separate bill at the end of our stay) and is closed in the winter months. From the à la carte menu our average bill for two starters, two main courses, one shared pudding, bottle of local wine + bottle of water was €70.
The unheated swimming pool seemed very clean although it does need some repainting: the hotel staff thought we were mad to venture in. It was very cold and two lengths were more than enough, but at the end of October this was hardly the hotel’s fault.
The style of the staff is very friendly but not at all over familiar. Mena the receptionist (who seemed to be permanently on duty) was very helpful as was Francisco the head waiter and Genarro the breakfast waiter. Ranieri the owner was unobtrusively much in evidence and very helpful with enquiries.
We met an English couple who have come here annually for almost 20 years and had nothing but praise for the whole place. Most other guests (American, French, Dutch and English) were staying for only a few days as they toured the region. There were some delegates to a nearby EU tourism conference.
At first €11 per day valet parking seems a bit steep. Then you realise it’s a bargain, - parking anywhere on the Amalfi coast is a nightmare. On-street parking in Ravello (charged 0800-2400) if you can find a space is €3 -5 per hour for non residents.
Wifi signal (no extra charge) seemed strong through all the floors we visited. There are two efficient computers for guest use.
If you want to be treated impersonally and like keeping staff at arm’s length, you won’t get the best out of this hotel: engage the staff in conversation no matter how limited your Italian and you’ll find them courteous, unfailingly helpful and amusing. There are other upmarket hotels at more at twice the price just up the hill, but their view (which is one of the main reasons for visiting Ravello in the first place) is exactly the same!
It looked as though some of the standard rooms on the lowest floors were in the process of modernisation.
Other points:
• The coast road between Salerno and Sorrento hugs the hillside and is very twisting and narrow: no real problem by car – just take it steady. The direct road over the hills form Naples was closed so we had to go a longer way round and more along the coast than would be usual.
• Local buses are frequent and efficient.
• The road up from Amalfi to Ravello twists and turns and climbs very steeply: again no real problem – the narrowest section is controlled by traffic lights and becomes a one way convoy system.
• There are no large grocery supermarkets in Ravello itself, although there are two or three small grocery shops. There’s a SPAR store two thirds up the road from Amalfi – parking is sometimes a bit tricky.
• When visiting Amalfi by car, park in the new multi storey car park built into the cliff on the road into the town: easy walking access from there to the town centre.
• If you drive to Naples, parking is almost impossible: go for a garage car park if you can find one. Take your satnav with you: signage is non-existent.
• Our meal at Salvatore next to the hotel was excellent: seafood pasta there was the best ever.
• Vittoria restaurant is more modestly priced and more modest in its food.
• When visiting the stunning Cimbrone gardens, stop on the way back at Villa Maria terrace for lunch. Ask for the snack menu – stunning views, excellent quality and no more expensive than one of the town square cafés.
Conclusion: In a part of the world where hotels are very expensive Hotel Graal offers good value, stunning views, comfortable rooms and friendly and efficient service. We very much look forward to a return visit.