We stayed three nights with half-board (which seemed to be the norm for the other largely German-speaking guests) and were glad we did. (In case you aren't aware, this part of Italy is more German-speaking than Italian, and overall, the area combines the best of German and Italian cultures, though most folks you'll encounter as a tourist will also speak some English as well as some French.) Breakfast buffets were enormous, and dinner portions were as well. You will not go hungry, and though this is not big-city fine dining, it is regional cuisine nicely prepared and with reasonably priced wines. We especially appreciated the fresh salad greens plus tons of add-ons. The half-board option meant that we could hike all day (and eat lunch--with beer or wine and espresso!--at huts along the way), come back to the room, get clean, and then go downstairs to a lovely dinner (in a very attractive dining room with big picture windows) at our leisure. No getting in the car, searching for parking, finding a just-OK place to eat.
We stayed in Ortisei because we wanted to hike in the Dolomites, and though the other nearby towns are also cute, Ortisei seems to be the largest, have the most going on, and the most gondolas (plus a new train) that helpfully cut off the steepest/least interesting vertical feet so that you can gain access to the interesting trails. The owner provided great advice for hikes both days.
We splurged and stayed in a larger room (which we weren't in long enough to fully enjoy because the weather and hiking were so great), but I think they all have balconies, and the beds are very comfortable. The place looks relatively new, and it nicely combines traditional design with contemporary style. If we ever get a chance to go back, we'll stay here again.
- Alpenhotel Rainell Ortisei
