The fabulous, otherworldly sense of arrival changed to disappointment at the legendary, uber-expensive Danieli. The rooms are nice enough but the service is largely full of attitude, condescension and ineptness: a missed wake up call, a “you moron” look from the concierge when I inquired about a concert that “was sold out a month ago.” (Each encounter with various concierges was at least slightly unpleasant.) A second glance at the rooms shows lack of concern for quality of details. Example: holes in a towel, a scale that’s 20 lbs off, a towel rack wobbling on the wall. I love the nice old furniture and gorgeous Venetian glass lamps. The curtains, upholstery and bedspread were all in good shape and appropriately styled. My single room was small, as I expected, but felt spacious enough, and looked out over rooftops and a canal. (There is too much stuff for sale in the room, in my opinion, but maybe some people like that.) I asked that the HUGE TV be removed so it wouldn’t spoil the old palazzo mood, and so I could spread out on the desk. It was done after my second request, which I thought was pretty good. My request for a second bath towel (there should have been two anyway) was filled on the first request. Not bad!

The lobby area is truly palatial, and I peeked into some remarkably grand rooms off the lavish upstairs foyers. I’ve stayed here twice in the last couple of years, both times in one of the more modest rooms, and have been happy with the appearance and overall comfort. However, wireless internet is currently available only in the lobby which is annoying. (In the end, though, I was happy to be working in that beautiful space rather than my isolated room.) However, the Italian WiFi (Wee Fee here) network conked out before I was totally finished one day, and on the next I couldn’t connect because of some terrorism threat, according the provider’s message.

My father stayed stayed at the Danieli as a little boy in the 30’s, and he brought me here when I was a child. I fervently hope it will continue to exist and prosper, however currently this hotel does not provide the level of service and up-to-date amenities that I expect from a five star, expensive (Breakfast is 50 euros extra!) property. It will be years before I give it another try. Please Starwood, do something!