I have been going to the Greek islands every summer since I was a kid. Normally my family just gets on the next boat to whichever island and someone at the harbor has a room, but not the case in Folegandros! My best piece of advice is to be sure to reserve a room in advance. Folegandros is tiny and is enjoying a moment right now, and when we landed on a Monday night, there was not a single room available. We ended up getting incredibly lucky but the rest of the week I saw many people turned away in a similar fashion, left to catch the next ferry to nearby Milos, Paros, or Santorini.
That being said, if you can get a room here, book it!! Anna, the sister of the owner of the resort, saw my mother and I looking sorry with our luggage in our hands in the center of Chora at 11:45 PM. She had miraculously had a cancellation and we spent the next week at Ampelos. The location was perfect, the service and rooms were impeccable, and we enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. I am so glad we didn't leave!! If it wasn't for Anna, we would have taken the next ferry out of there as many of the innkeepers were quite rude in informing us there were no rooms to be let (the same people who during low season are throwing themselves at you). However, Anna is a kind, generous, and thoughtful person who really went out of her way to help us, and we are so glad she did since we loved Folegandros!
In any case, the location is just outside the lovely Chora, so you don't have to deal with the noise from latenight drinking (which is lightweight compared to a place like Mykonos or Paros) but you can still walk to the action. We found Folegandros to be quite expensive in terms of buses and taking caiques to nearby beaches, so it is important to be able to walk to Chora to save some $.
Restaurants: I would be sure to eat at either Spitiko (portions are big and food is delicious), or Kritikos. If you want Gyro, there are only two places. Do NOT eat at the gyro place that is in the main square. Eat at the one next to Kritikos, it is much better quality with better service and prices as well. In general, anywhere in Chora is great. This is one of the rare islands that is busy and touristic but still has maintained its charm and not overbuilt like crazy (probably why it is such a hot destination).
Beaches: We went to every beach, and Katergo is by far the best. Sadly the only way to get there, unless you have your own boat, is with an 8 Euro ticket per person (round trip). There are no umbrellas, chairs, or places to eat, so be sure to bring a picnic and an umbrella unless you are planning to leave the beach before the day is over! The other beach that we loved was Aigios Nicholaos. There is a nice taverna with OK food (the only place to eat) and there are lots of little trees, so if you get there early you don't need an umbrella! You can also walk along a cliff path to this beach from Karavostasi instead of taking the caique, if you want to save $.
I have been to pretty much every Greek island in the Ionian and Aegean and would definitely go back, with my family as well as with my boyfriend! It is a great place that everyone can have fun, just don't expect a crazy nightlife or to meet too many people (most people come with family, groups of friends, or as a couple). And don't forget to book ahead of time! :)
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