We decided to base ourselves at Vila do Conde for the final two nights of our stay in Portugal, as it was on the bracing Atlantic coast and also very convenient for the short drive back to Porto airport. Having driven along the beach front 'strip', with its many new apartment blocks, it was a genuine surprise to turn a corner and discover a substantial old town, a rather appealing river front and the huge bulk of the Santa Clara convent looming over it all. All this so close to the busy city of Porto.
For once, parking was easy; the town's tourist information office close at hand, and the Estalagem do Brazao very close by. (We had already had a look at the Hotel Santana, which overlooks the river from the opposite bank; however, the price of rooms there was virtually double what the Brazao was asking). The hotel is housed in an old building which we were told was a former palace. Whether this is true or not I'm not too sure, but it is a delight inside, with azulejo tiles lining the corridors; old (but nice) dark wood furniture in the rooms; space to move around; and everything spick and span.
The residents' lounge has an almost Scottish hunting lodge feel to it, with deep armchairs and sofas, a big fireplace, wall-mounted lanterns, a small library of books and even a draughts board set out on a small side table (there's also a pool table, which of course should really be a full sized snooker table, but never mind). Just about the only thing lacking is an array of stags' heads around the walls.
The breakfast buffet is averagely good; nothing outstanding, but all the basics present.
This place maybe wouldn't suit those who are more at home in the bland corporate surroundings of a chain-type hotel; however, we found it a rather charming and appealing throwback to a more leisured and gentler age.
