At first sight, Setubal seems to be a rather ugly city – too close to Lisbon to develop a strong profile of its own. Grown on the basis of industrial wealth (production and port), it expanded in the 1960s the results of which are a very, very visible belt around the old centre of the town. Taking a closer look, you will discover a very charming, authentic Portuguese city that has maintained its character, which wasn’t influenced by tourism, for instance.
The Pousada of Setubal is overlooking the city and the large lagoon-like bay, which actually is the delta of the river Sado. The intimate hotel with 16 rooms has been integrated in a medieval fortress, thus exemplifying the philosophy of the Portuguese Pousadas: Allowing people to experience the country’s history. And in this case, they have succeeded to the fullest. Driving up the hill, entering through an enormous gate and later climbing up century-old stairs and alleyways really provides a feeling of history. And you are rewarded by stunning views and peaceful tranquillity. Well, to be honest, a large part of the view is on the huge industrial port, and another piece includes the hotels of Troja – a magnificent peninsula just across the bay. It does not diminish the quality of the location at all. On the contrary, especially in the evening, it is charming and entertaining to look down on the city centre, which is of course along the old port – just below the Pousada.
The staff at the Pousada Sao Felipe is impeccably friendly, the rooms are spacious, most bathrooms have windows, and the air condition in the rooms is superb (which can be important at times). Try to get a room on the 3rd floor to the front where the view is best (301, 302, 303, 306), and always choose a Panoramic room. Frankly, if you can’t pay that extra 30ish Euros, consider to stay somewhere else; the standard rooms are on the first floor facing a dark backyard.
Breakfast is very good, given that they will do a full buffet even if they only have 6 of their rooms occupied (as was the case when I was there).
