Perhaps unsurprisingly, many of my favourite hotels around the world sum up the very essence of a nation. For example: The Imperial in Tokyo - huge, busy, ultra-efficient, caught in a time-warp, slightly other-worldly; The Alvear in Buenos-Aires: louche, decadent, charming, and thoroughly outdated.
And then there is Zurich's Savoy. Think of Switzerland and you probably think of mountains, lakes and chocolates. But if you have been there, you will think of the amazing services, the way everything just 'works', picture-postcard villages so pristine they could have been built yesterday, and a 'correctness' that permeates every aspect of society. So with the Savoy Bauer En Ville.
Everything just works, and works exceptionally well. This is a machine lubricated with truffle-oil, where no curtain, chair, bed or carpet has a single sign of wear; where the staff will be waiting to pre-empt your problem; where the (former) owner and his wife will be a constant presence - welcoming you by name - in between checking for a trace of dust and inspecting newly cleaned rooms; where the restaurant wil make you everything and anything that you want to an exceptional - if old-school - standard.
Is there anything wrong with the hotel? Well, it is not large, and as such does not have certain facilities such as a gym, spa or pool. And, of course, it lives up to that most prescient of Swiss stereotypes: it is horrendously expensive.
But the Savoy is perfectly Swiss, and I can give it no greater compliment.
- Savoy Baur En Ville zürich
