I have arrived to Stresa by train from Milan, expecting to find a taxi easily at the train station. But there were none, and I decided to simply walk down to town and find the hotel there, since I knew it was right at the bank of Lago Maggiore.

It was a very easy walk, despite two heavy bags, and I spotted the hotel right away - even from the street it stood out with its festive appearance, dressed in hanging baskets of flowers and shining in the special light of a fairytale edifice immaculately maintained. But that was just the beginning - with every step taken inside behind the beautiful iron-cast gates, I was gasping for air in splendid astonishment; I felt as I was walking into a wonderland.

Indescribable opulence, Venetian chandeliers, floor mosaics, carpets, spotless everything - the hotel is a pure child of the bygone era of the Grand Hotels of 19th century. The atmosphere brings to mind places like Splendido in Portofino, Winter Palace in Luxor or Old Cataract in Aswan. You step in a different world, full of rich elegance and grandeur, so completely vanished from our days of plastic and mass production that the unparalleled quality and beauty of the hotel decorations seems unreal; at times it feels like a theater due to the splendid designs, found today only at historic patrician villas, and to the highly ornate uniform of the staff.

The spellbound atmosphere does not end with the entry to the hotel; in continues to enchant in the corridors, boasting of doors decorated with a lavish wall paneling of intarsia, or precious inlaid woods; of huge richly framed mirrors, marvelous chandeliers, luxurious carpet, and orchids at the elevator doors. Finally the magic strikes one in the room.

Inside my room 518 I was amazed to find richly decorated inlaid wood closet, which was very spacious and well-lit. Everything breathed of comfort and unbelievable luxury. My room with garden view on the fifth floor had a pleasant balcony with a view of the fountain, which turned out to have a carillon that played the Ode to Joy from Beethoven's 9th Symphony every evening (only for ten minutes).

The room itself was a delight, doors and furniture decorated with the same inlaid wood, with such outstanding quality and workmanship that one can only considers herself lucky that she lived to stay in a room so uniquely adorned, almost as the Studiolo of Duke Federico da Montefeltro in Palazzo Ducale in Gubbio or in Urbino.

The Marble bathroom was splendidly and generously supplied with innumerable towels, robe and slippers. The toiletries were marvelous also.

The bed was extremely comfortable, and overall I could say - this hotel knows how to please guests for more than a century. It feels as nothing ever got spoiled and feel to disrepair; it is truly amazing how the management maintains such a unique place, keeping the decorations intact, and rent it at a reasonable rate, considering the exceptional quality of everything. I stayed in superb places like Grand Hotel Duomo in Milan, Hotel Europa e Regina in Venice, Hotel Santa Lucia in Napoli (in addition to the above-mentioned hotels), but I have never encountered such incomparable opulence in the overall decorations of the hotel and the rooms.

The breakfast was quite good but average for a hotel of this class - a typical buffet with fresh breads, fruits, cheese, fresh juices and omelette on order; there was also some Spumante. I loved the outside seating - the weather was perfect in the early October, and the view over the lake from the hotel terrace was stunningly beautiful.

The hotel grounds are marvelous, and it is there that I first spotted a Hummingbird Hawk-moth (Macroglossum stellatarum) - a butterfly which looks like a hummingbird and which is attracted by blooming shrubs and bushes that are abundant in the hotel garden.

The location is excellent, 10 min to train station and 5 min to the boats to take you to the islands. Both islands are magic; being a guest of the unicorn at Isola Bella is a privilege - the landscapes are simply breathtaking, the sail on a boat is a magical tour, showcasing the beauty of the lake and the sculpted island at every second of its glide over the water. The Palace is impressive, and the tapestry collection with Unicorns is phenomenal.

Perhaps I am the most enchanted with Isola Madre - its exquisite beauty, walking exotic birds, flowers, plants and vistas make it the sorceress Alcina's magic island. Yet I must note that staying in Des Illes Borromees enhanced the whole impression of the islands; returning to a splendid room after spending a day in unicorn and wondrous birds company at the islands left an utterly unforgettable memories. I was extremely lucky in the early days of October 2011 - the weather was very warm, with bright sun and no wind. My whole stay at Stresa was a gift from fortune, and certainly due to the fact that everything went the best possible way there I completely fell in love with Stresa, the Islands, Lago Maggiore and the hotel.

The service at the hotel was professional and generous; they allowed me free parking for my newly rented car (it was easy to rent a car in Stresa in Avis office, a short walk from the hotel - I had an advanced reservation for the car rental, though) and kept my luggage after the check-out until later in the day, when I departed. The personnel were very friendly, and if senior people had some slightly proud attitude, more junior ones were very approachable and accommodating. I forgot the mounting of my Garmin GPS and a bell-boy helped me to scotch-tape it to the dashboard, where it stayed in place for the next two weeks.

Everything was perfect - although if something were truly missing it was free internet connection. I stayed for two nights so I could live without it, but ideally it would be useful to have at least some minutes free. It is strange that in Italy the most luxury hotels charge exorbitanly for internet, while simple places provide it for free.

Other things to improve would be to have a functioning outside swimming pool (it was in repair state and did not look attractive). Also one evening there was some function in the hotel, and the security was tightened; while I understand that, I did not feel too comfortable under a measuring gaze of obvious security agents everywhere in the lobby. It was the only time I felt under survelliance, and perhaps they could find a way to run conventions in a less discomforting way for the ordinary hotel customers.

Apart from the above few glitches, which really pale before the overall magic the hotel provides, It is a place for honeymoon, romance, delight and pleasure of life. I will definitely return there, and I recommend this hotel for those who would not mind to pay extra to get the best of the best, and who are receptive to the elegance and beauty du temps perdu.

Exceptional.