If all hotel owners and staff were as friendly as those at the Eden the traveller's world would be a much happier place.

The hotel occupies a lovely position, with just a road between it and the glorious Lake Maggiore, and is very close to the small centre of Baveno. Perhaps more importantly it is yards from the Bus and Boat stops and five minutes from the railway station.

Our room was basic, with a small ensuite shower room, TV, small safe and hairdryer. The owner has compiled a folder of local attractions, and there should be a copy in each room - worth a look if you've not been before.

The room featured adequate cupboard space and modern windows (with shutters) which killed most of the traffic noise quite effectively - though the "singer" who was torturing some popular tunes to an unsurprisingly small audience in the open-air bar across the road did manage to keep some people awake, until he was presumably thrown into the lake when they could take no more.

There is a small terrace, accessed from the second floor, which faces inland towards the church - you can pay extra for a lake view if you wish.

We stayed on a half-board basis - there is a cold buffet breakfast whilst the evening meal is two courses from a fixed menu (preceded by hors d'oeuvres as required and concluded with various desserts, also as required). All of this is perfectly adequate, if perhaps a little simpler than one might have expected. The restaurant is on the ground floor so while you consider your culinary options there is a lovely view of the lake from most of the tables - you are allocated a table when you arrive and keep to this arrangement for the duration of your stay.

Baveno has a nice waterfront to stroll along, but it is not a good idea to walk along the main road either towards Stresa, or the other way towards Feriolo, as pavements tend to disappear at awkward moments. Excellent buses will take you in either direction for a couple of Euros at most - the boats are more expensive so (unless you get a weekly pass) save these for the island trips - which are essential.

Milan or Locarno are feasible by train from Baveno, and a trip to Lake Orta (by bus from Stresa) makes a very pleasant diversion. Boats also go as far as Locarno, though this is a 2-3 hour trip.

The hotel is clean and the staff are always around to practice their English and help your Italian. The restaurant is open to non-residents in the evening and there is an a-la-carte menu. There is a small bar off the foyer, though I did not see this used during our stay. The hotel also features an extremely small lift - if you have a lot of luggage you may have to make more than one trip, or use the stairs and meet your luggage when you reach the correct floor.

There does not appear to be a 'safe' room for luggage should you need to stay around for a few hours after you have checked out - the owner actually gave us use of an empty room for the necessary period which was much appreciated, but it may be worth checking on this, especially if all rooms are occupied.

We had a pleasant stay at the Eden - there are other hotels in and around Baveno -and it is a no-frills option. But if you want a small, friendly establishment in a convenient setting, with a lovely view over the lake, this may be for you.