On an unremarkable street in an unremarkable town lies a rather fine hotel. Enter into a large covered courtyard, being briefly distracted by the chatty caged bird before finding reception in the right hand corner. Efficient check-in and a helping hand with luggage, no tip expected. Wander the gardens, noting that the pool is open only in summer and appears not to be quite so glamorous as it appears on the website, tucked under some trees. Take tea on the terrace and wander into town.The crisis has hit this corner of Spain too. Shops have closed, the streets seem tired, and a week's strike by garbage men has left rubbish piled high and malodouring on the pavements. Romerijo - the town's famous fish restaurant - is as good as they say. But the guide books are over enthusiastic about Puerto Santa Maria - it really has little to offer beyond some ancient edifices and a couple of streets of restaurants and bars. The catamaran to Cadiz seems the best option, and makes for a fun day out. As does Jerez, barely 20 minutes away. Or Conil, 45 minutes down the coast, still laid back despite contniuing development. For God's sake avoid Novo Sancti Petri - a massive resort that proves hell can be built on earth. But back to the hotel, our suite is large and comfortable, if feeling a bit dusty, and the restaurant, if formal, proves good value - try having two starters instead of a main if you have inevitably had too large a lunch elsewhere. Shame about the rock festival while we were in town - three nights of Wannabe Ted Nugents til midnight, or even 2 am one night, take the edge off a peaceful sleep. As do rather hard mattresses that dig into the tops of your feet if you sleep with them over the end. So perhaps best avoid rooms 18/18A and 17 on the street front, although the double glazing is good enough in normal circumstances. But despite the above, we liked it here, it's a good base to explore the region, even if PSM isn't much itself. Jerez would be the best alternative. Cadiz is better enjoyed as a day trip from elsewhere, and in this regard PSM scores well as a setting off point.
Room Tip: Ask for one that is not on the street front.
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