Lately, I've been staying in faceless institutional hotels and longing for someplace with more local character. So, when driving by Baden Baden, we took the opportunity to drive into town unannounced and find someplace with Character. Along the hotel trail, marked through the city and up into the hills, I came across the Hotel Tanneck.

The inn is a cross between cottage and victorian castle, built into the hillside with a small parking area out front. The eclectic lobby has a bit of everything, presided over by the crisp and friendly woman who owns the house. We chose to spend an extra 5 euro to get the balcony double: it's a hike up a curving stairway with luggage, then down a hall full of plants, glass, and oriental rugs, to the rooms.

The hotel (more of an inn) is a bit like staying with your eccentric aunt: somewhat run down and filled with every knick-knack imaginable. The view from our small balcony was stunning, overlooking the city with panoramic views. The room itself is small, a mix of big heavy beds and deep wooden closets, odd little lights and well-used chairs. Unfortunately, the double bed turned out to be two twins pushed together. It's worth noting that, peering around the edge of the balcony, we could see more modern rooms refurbished next door to ours.

In-room TV is extra (there is a set for rent in the hall!) and an internet terminal is available in the lobby (for a charge). The bathroom is small but the shower has ample hot water. The neighborhood is residential and quiet at night. Breakfast is in a sunroom overlooking the city; cereals, meats, cheese, breads, juice. You get a pot of coffee: eggs and other items are extra charge.

The city is a short, vertical walk from the inn, down a path and steps to the city. Mark your course: it can be tricky to remember all the junctures back up. There is tourist information at the bottom (open at 10 am), and the casino is next to it. DO make time to walk across town to the Caracalla Spa, the mineral baths and water park that are a fun and very relaxing experience no matter what your group.

The hotel is, indeed, quirky, but charming: it's a comfortable and unique stay that fits in with the fanciful setting.

We shall be making our fourth visit to Hotel Tanneck this June. The position is fabulous, overlooking the Kurpark and with a delightful walk down into town through the wooded park. (The uphill return can be avoided by using the bus if you're lazy.) The hotel is a large traditional house with huge overhanging eaves and is run by two very friendly and helpful sisters. They expect you to make yourself at home - and we have been treated with unusual kindness in the past. The generous size of the rooms and their particularly fine outlook more than compensate for any lack of modern style in the ensuite facilites. Excellent value for money in this expensive town, where a fine outlook, private parking and a balcony are hard to find without paying treble the price.

Hotel Tanneck may not be every travelers cup of Liebfraumilch, but for those who enjoy a different experience, this is the platz! Owned and managed by 2 charming sisters, this former rest home sits atop a hill, next to a park, with a path from the hotel down to the town center. Our slightly oversized twin room had a balcony, with an excellent view of the town. It seemed nothing matched, but that just added to the charm. And for 12 Euros, they did 2 loads of laundry! I am already planning my next trip to Germany around another visit to Hotel Tanneck, and the "Water Therapy" and massage at the Baths of Carracala. This was one of my 2 favorite stops on an 18-day European trip that covered 7 countries!

i have been there at 2001.
the room was not modern at all.
there was no tv in the room,
you should pay to see tv in a small lobby.
basic breakfast, no eggs.
the hotel was an hospital before many years.
you pay a lot for nothing.