Don't be put off with the less than picturesque approach to Mas Dom Pater [--]. Located 2K north of St. Remy en Provence in a mixed residential/agricultural area, this welcoming chambre d'hote offers spacious private suites with plenty of privacy and quiet. Once you park the car, the grounds are quite lovely with roses and lavender throughout and a swimming pool.

We were met by the French only speaking proprietor, Monsieur Bruno ( his wife, Monique speaks adequate English). He gave us a tour of the grounds and showed us our room, Cocotiers, a vast bedroom with enough room for several sofas and a fridge. Air conditioned with a recently remodeled bathroom which included a shower, tub, and w.c., everything was spotlessly clean and attractively furnished with souvenirs from M. Bruno's long years in Senegal.

Our suite was in a separate building from the traditional mas with one other suite adjoining it along with an adequately stocked outdoor kitchen to be shared with the occupants nextdoor. Initially, we didn't think we'd use the kitchen but, after our first night's dinner at an unairconditioned, expensive restaurant full of noisy Germans, we came to appreciate eating cheap but delicious picnics on our private terrace. (Fruit stands, an Intermarche, bakery's and chacuteries are within a few kilometers.)

Monsieur Bruno prepares breakfast each morning including homemade bread and croissants, eggs cooked to order, and an offering of yogurt, fruit and cereal. Between breakfast orders he draws on his extensive knowledge of the region to suggest sight seeing itineraries for the day. He also has a list of favorite restaurants if you're interested in dining out.

We were given free access to the Bruno's computer to check our email (They also have wifi if you've brought your laptop) and for 6 euros they did several loads of our sweaty, travel stained laundry.

The only caveat I have is to suggest you reconfirm your reservation several days before arrival either by phone or email as there was some confusion as to when we were coming and the length of our stay.

Mas Dom Pater was a welcome contrast to the snooty Chambre d' Hote we had just come from in the Bandol region of Provence. Set in a vinyard, we were awakened at 6:30 every morning by a tractor spewing a cloud of sulphur to treat the vines. The breakfast was stingy and the owner was not only less than forthcoming about the charges but made us feel like intruders rather than valued clients. Monsieur and Madame Bruno have knocked themselves out to make their guests experience in western Provence a trip to remember.