Clad in ivy and autumnal leaves on the night of our visit, this old-world hotel is a crazy but ultimately lovely aggregation of individual buildings in the heart of the village of Chenonceaux, only a few steps away from the entrance to the famous chateau, and within easy access of many other sites and villages of the Loire Valley. Best of all, it is a 200km journey by motorway from CDG airport, and an excellent stopover on the way to the South. Once through the door, you leave behind the aura of the 18th Century and enter the mid-20th Century ---- a world of bright colours, cosy furniture, spotless cleanliness, adequately spacious in every respect, and all the conveniences of the modern world. My wife and I chose to break the south-bound journey here for two reasons: its restaurant boasts a Michelin Star, and a range of generous packages are on offer. Ours provided room, dinner without wine, and the most delicious breakfast we have had in all of France ( a cross between continental and full international) for the combined price of 200 euros including taxes and service.
The dinner was priced at 48 euros, and for my wife, this meant 4 courses: poached foie gras;
large pan-fried shrimps with truffled potatoes and wild mushrooms; a fine cheese plate with salad; and for dessert, 3 pyramids of chocolate praline with an intense chocolate ice-cream.
Being greedier, I went for the next menu at 78 euros for which 48 euros were credited: delicious poached langoustines with an "ice-cream" of basil and lettuce; selle d'Agneaue with turnips in puff-pastry and a spaghetti of salsify; the same cheese plate as my wife; a pre-dessert of strawberry soup and creamed yoghurt resting on an almond biscuit; and a full dessert comprising pyramids of white, brown and black chocolate mousse on a crunchy Valrhona biscuit , accompanied by mint tea and chocolate ice-cream. A nice selection of truffles rounded off our first French meal of the year. The service was competently congenial, and the wine-list was varied and not over-priced. Of the more than 150 Michelin-starred restaurants in which my wife and I have eaten over 20 years of gourmandizing, this easily ranked in the upper-third.
The whole experience was a pure delight, and one that we hope to repeat -- the sooner the better.
- Auberge Du Bon Laboureur Chenonceaux
