We frequently need a stop over in Beaune or the surrounding area to break up a long drive which we make 3-4 times each year. We have therefore stayed in a number of hotels in this area and find that they tend to fall into the "chain" variety (Novotel etc) which are situated on the outskirts of Beaune, and the more traditional "quality" hotels (such as Le Cep) which are good, but expensive, and feel (probably deliberately) as if they stopped some time a century or more ago. Via Mokis was somewhere we both came across through various internet searches and its main appeal (to us) was that it looked very modern and different, supplying spacious and well designed rooms for a decent price. That we also managed to get a discounted price for the date we wanted was also a plus. Our only concern (which proved to be fairly well founded) was the lack of secure parking - and the fact that parking on the streets in Beaune can be a tricky business (particularly if you are concerned about leaving a substantial amount of luggage in the car). I ended up driving round the complex one-way system for a while in the rain - ultimately parking in one of the ramparts free public car parks - which was fine but a bit of a slog from the hotel.
I note other reviewers mention an unfriendly welcome - this could not be further from our experience - it is true that if you arrive in the middle of supper (as we did) then the owner directs you round from the restaurant entrance to the other side - so that you do not end up lugging your bags through other diners' tables - but that it not exactly an unsurprising request. Whilst I parked the car - drinks were provided to the others and we had a generally very friendly welcome considering that we were rather later than expected - and probably holding up the kitchen.
Supper was excellent - really very high quality food prepared in an interesting way. We shared some of the best snails we have ever had, and the charolais beef with black truffle (in huge bark like chunks rather than the paltry shavings you normally get) was exemplary. There is also a superb wine list - and a large number of excellent wines by the glass. Again the service was great - and the owner (who was presiding over the restaurant) very friendly and helpful.
We had excellent nights' sleep - the hotel is on very quiet backstreets - and then had an excellent early breakfast before our departure back on the road. Quite often we do not bother with hotel breakfasts, particularly when in a town like Beaune where there are plentiful cafes which can provide an excellent breakfast for less money and of better quality. However, it really is worth breakfasting at Via Mokis - an incredible finely chopped fruit salad (with camomile flavouring), beautiful home baked croissants and pain au chocolat, freshly squeezed orange juice, and superbly prepared eggs and bacon. Not huge (ie. American) quantities - but perfect for a normal European breakfast.
Via Mokis has been well put together by people who clearly care about providing an interesting and different hotel and dining experience - it is well designed and thought through - well worth a visit if you like modernist boutique style hotels with a great kitchen - but avoid it if you are more of a traditionalist looking for the "Relais & Chateaux" style hotel. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay and our meals and will definitely be visiting again as it was a great stopover and first night to our much needed holiday.
- Boutique Hotel Via Mokis
