We wanted to go to the Mayan Riviera during spring break but at the same time, we did not want to compete with 135,000 drunk american teenagers for restaurant space in Cancun, so we chose Playa (as it is known by the locals) instead. I found Pension San Juan on the web and was attracted by its prices (US$35 and up/night per room) and its claim of being right at the main street. They were right about that! The hotel is centrally located at Quinta Avenida (Fifth Ave.), one block off the beach! I stayed with my wife, 2 children (9 and 10) and their nanny (20). Since we needed at least 4 beds, we had to take their biggest room which faced the boulevard. The room has a view of the street and people watching will entertain you for hours, as thousands and thousands of people start walking up and down Quinta Ave at about noon and don't go home until past 3 AM! We had literally hundreds of restaurants accesible within a 2-3 minute walk. No car is needed or recommended, since you cannot park in or near the busy streets leading to the main street. Service was great and friendly and the rooms were clean. The AC was C-O-L-D and there is a mid-size fridge and a full sink. There is hot water, which you do not need because tap water is not that cold and we needed the cool water on our backs after 6-8 hours at the beach or after the day-long tours in 90 degree weather. Beds were double or queen, and very comfortable. There was a TV with cable, but all channels but CNN were in Spanish, so the kids will have to watch Dora the Explorer in her original language (how kool is that!)
There is a full kitchen (sanz microwave) up in a nice balcony facing the boulevard on the third floor where you can cook and sit while looking down at the people walking below. If you are a light sleeper, take a room on the back side of the hotel; otherwise, be prepared to be awakened by singing flocks of "happy" locals and visitors roaming the streets until wee hours of dawn. But this should not be an issue the rest of the year. You HAVE to have breakfast at the HOT restaurant about 5 blocks away; ask the desk person at the Pension. Tour buses will pick you up right at the Pension doorsteps and they can give you names of reputable guides. Must see: Chichen Itza Mayan ruins, TULUM ruins and XCARET water park with its underground river. There you can swim with dolphins for 45 minutes but must call ahead and pay US $115/person. The exchange rate was around 10.50-11.10 Mexican pesos for a dollar and everyone will take dollars....plenty of banks and ATM's around. Do not waste money on overpriced Cuban cigars; go to the cigar shop kitty kat corner from the Pension, and ask for Don Mario; he is there every night "torciendo" (rolling) cigars and you can get a freshly made Mexican cigar (just as good or better than a Cuban; trust me, I know, I used to sell Cigars) for US $2-5 or buy a box of Veracruz-tobacco cigars to take home withour the hassle of US Customs papework for Cuban cigars. Speaking of Cuban, treat yourself to Mojitos and the best food south of Havana by having dinner at La Bodeguita del Medio, an official Cuban-government owned restaurant which E. Hemingway made famous on his books, and has several franchises in Mexico. Stay for salsa dancing after 9 PM at La Bodeguita; they have their own Cuban salseros! If the ropa vieja, moros y cristianos and the other cuban plates make you tired,, go for a capuccino a couple of doors down. You will also find sushi, stores and others in a very modern strip mall right past the Ferry piers, about a mile from the Pension. Bottom line: if you are looking for anything above 2 stars, look elsewhere...but if you want to have basic accomodations and save a bundle while spending all day at the beach and coming to a comfy room with AC and nice beds for less than $50-80 per night, then this is your place. Overall, an awesome experience. Will definitively do it again!
- Hotel San Juan
