Laughing Bird Apartments offers a plain and quiet (and inexpensive)little place to lay your head while enjoying the sun and the sea in the friendly small-town atmosphere of Governor's Harbour. You will have to overlook some wear and tear if you stay here...but you will be greeted and seen off like company...and you will be able to unwind in a tiny village on an undeveloped Out Island. Those who favor the luxe indulgences and limitless amenities of the overdone, foreign-owned Bahamas-in-a-can resort hotel need not apply.
Accommodations at LB consist of two duplex apartment cottages; I think one unit in each building has a second bedroom that can be had by prior arrangement. The property has been caringly planted with trees and flowers by the owners (but still has some sand where there ought to be more grass--on the ocean side of the place--due to damage from recent storms). The cottages are water-view but not waterfront--the sand-over-rock-floor beach is across the "back yard" and the road, with the water about 200 ft from your back door. Plenty of worn but perfectly serviceable garden furniture is spread around the yard, and if you want to indulge in that whole "lay in a hammock under a palm tree with a book" thing, you'll have several comfy new hammocks to choose from. There is a grilling pit for guest use, with a pile of firewood at the ready.
We stayed in Apartment #4, furthest from the barely-traveled side road and from any foot traffic through the property, but right across the fence from a local family's back yard (more about the midnight canine concerts later). The unit was clean and simple and just a little bigger than tiny--two tall but not-fat adults were pinched for space at times, and mealtimes required some fancy footwork in the kitchen area--and nicely furnished in wicker, glass and light woods. The room itself was fairly well worn and definitely showing its age...vases of fresh flowers created a graceful touch, but a fresh coat of paint and some new floor tile would make a world of difference. Comfortable king bed was two twins pushed together...big closet...old and slightly funky but very clean bathroom with tile shower stall...sheets and towels worn and really need replacing. More signs of age: the blinds, patio screen door and windows mostly needed fixing up or replacing too. (Note that the owners aren't maintenance slackers by any means: the whole property was scrupulously clean and tidy, and their young Haitian maintenance man was always working at painting or spiffing-up or cleaning something. The place is just not new and could stand a bit of renovating.)
The cramped kitchenette had a full complement of crockery...pots and pans...utensils...small full-sized fridge/freezer...four-burner stove with oven...microwave...coffee maker...toaster...electric can opener...but of the countertop appliances, sad to say, only the coffee maker worked as it should have. The collection of appliances on the countertop also left practically no room for meal prep... frustrating ...and a frustrated cook is not enjoying his vacation!
We slept with the windows and patio door open--good screens in place on all--and did not use the a/c. There were a few mosquitoes but they seemed more interested in finding the warmest corners up near the ceiling than in biting. (Strange since the Mrs is usually a mosquito magnet.) There were also plenty of chickens in the neighborhood, and between several guest roosters and the four dogs next door, reveille was sounded daily between 0430 and 0530--except for that night with the full moon when everybody got going at about 0200. What a treat THAT was! If you stay at LB and happen to be in #4, you might want to use the a/c instead of leaving the windows open...unless you like to get an early start to your day.
Some notes on the town of GH:
Right around different corners from LB are a bakery (nice cheese danish...good bread still warm from the oven...cheap...simple breakfasts too) and an Esso station with minimart. A 5- to 10-minute walk takes you to the center of town and a shopping center with grocery market...fuel pumps... hardware store... gift shop that also carries some snorkeling gear...and First Caribbean Bank with PLUS system ATM. Also in the middle of town are three liquor stores...gift shops...police station...bike rental place. Fishermen bring in the catch right at the center of town at about two or three in the afternoon...you might be able to take home a huge and unsurpassably fresh crayfish (Caribbean rock lobster) for dinner. Down the road from the shopping center are the government building (with post office) and a library, in a hundred-year-old Victorian building, with computers you can use for $5. Closer to LB are a second grocery store...Royal Bank of Canada (no ATM)...movie theatre with one show nightly at eight-fifteen. A 25-minute walk across the island from LB--up the hill above town and down the other side--takes you to ClubMed Beach. The ClubMed is gone--destroyed by a storm a few years ago--but several beautifully deserted miles of pinkish-tan sand and pastel water remain. You'll have to overlook the flotsam strewn around the beach--it is completely unmaintained after all, and faces the Atlantic--but this is probably one of the nicest beaches most people will ever see. After our first visit, I took a garbage bag with me every time we went and hauled out as much plastic junk as I could, just to help the place out a little. (This is only one of many beautiful - undeveloped - deserted beaches on Eleuthera that you can drive [or thumb] to depending on your level of adventurousness.)
The grocery markets had pretty much everything needed for snacks, simple meals and keeping house... limited fresh fruits and veg...some local products but mostly US and European imports...almost all meat frozen...prices for most items 150-200% of stateside, but some were about the same, and a few things (suprisingly)--tea and the same brand of soup we use at home, for instance--were actually cheaper.
Food choices in GH consist of a couple of simple local restaurants...couple of take-out places... the (seasonally closed)restaurant at the Buccaneer Club...Piña Cafe right in front of that...restaurant at Cigatoo Inn (up about a third of a mile of fairly challenging hill above town--see notes at TA Cigatoo page)...Sunset Inn about a fifteen-minute walk south of town (see notes also)...and the Friday night fish fry (a town cookout, really) next to the causeway to Cupid's Cay. Be warned--there is almost nowhere to eat dinner in GH after 5:00 in the evening... virtually nowhere on Sunday...although the movie house does serve burgers and ice cream if you need something to stave off starvation until morning. Restaurant prices were generally fairly high for disappointingly small portions (and we are not overfed Ameri-gluttons either) regardless of where you went. If you tire of the options in GH you can always drive or catch a ride to Palmetto Point and head for Mate and Jenny's...where you can get a truly awful pizza from some really nice people.
It seems like everybody in GH keeps some chickens and a dog (or two), so there are dogs and chickens everywhere, since both wander during the day as dogs and chickens will. Drive carefully if you do rent a car. You can pick up a sack of chicken feed at the market for $2.39 if you feel like making some new friends... Hitchhikers can catch rides at the corner by Pyfrom's Liquor (northbound) or across the street from the Esso station (southbound)--hitchhiking is a fairly common and evidently very safe way to get around on Eleuthera. GH Airport is a twenty-minute/$25 (before tip)taxi ride from town.
Does that about cover it? Nothing like a thorough review... Please feel free to email with any questions about LB, GH or Eleuthera and I will help with further info if I can. Bon Voyage.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC