Travel nightmare:

Having traveled 22 hours to Abaco from Lafayette CA USA to what we were assured as a private paradise for relaxing and bone-fishing (as written up in Conde Naste no less), my wife and I, having called and confirmed our booking, hopped in a cab to travel 18 miles down a road out of town – no lights, no traffic – middle of nowhere – and the cabbie said “are you sure Nettie is expecting you?” to which I replied “we spoke with them yesterday and called today so say were going to be arriving later tonight than planned”.

Off we went into the dark forest down a perfectly straight and barren road. 18 miles, then left down another dark road having not seen a light or a building since leaving town. Sign saying “Nettie’s Barefoot Resort” lit up dimly and there we were. There were a few lights on in the background through the dense bush, and we told the driver good night and sent him off (ooops!). Picked up our bags and walked thought a slightly overgrown path to our destination. To a big porch and “Ring for service” said the hand painted sign illuminated by a bare bulb – my wife looked at me wondering what exactly that meant as there was no bell – just a locked wooden door made of slats though which we could make out what looked like a Bahamian bar and dining room – no lights inside, no movement, no people, no noises – nothing – other than sand flies which were starting to bit like H.

I tried walking around the side, through more overgrown jungle – another slatted door – bolted and locked shut – a few lights on but no movement other than a couple of chickens and ducks in the swamp at the back of the building.

“Oops” I said to myself – “I think we are in trouble” and started to call out “Hello? Hello?” - A few squawks from some type of fowl and that was all.

Back to the road with our wheelie bags, the darkness, and one very upset wife. We walked down the road further and saw dim lights off in the distance. We were pleased to see a pickup truck pass by (the first and only vehicle we had seen!) but very disappointed (and a bit unnerved) when they did not stop as we tried to flag them down.

Quarter of a mile and about 1000 sand-fly bites later thinking that I might have to break-in to Nettie’s and raid the bar to spend the night, we came across a small house with lights on. Couple of dogs barking, pick ups in the front yard – family having a late dinner – TV on and clearly the sound of banjo music playing in my ears as I worked up the nerve to knock on the door! (Wife in the background sobbing a wee bit – and scratching like mad as the cloud of sand flies had called in for reinforcements!).

Fortunately Cathy Sims came to our rescue – a local woman and owner of the house we were standing in front of. When she got over the obviously weird fact that we had anticipated spending the night at Nettie’s: “Nettie has not been taking guests for some time now” – which was the refrain from her many of the locals we met there – she dismissed my request to use her phone to call a cab and told us she would drive us the 18 miles back to town and get us into the Abaco Beach Resort where she worked in the office.

From Hell to Paradise via one good Samaritan – checked in (employee discount no less!), fell asleep as we hit the bed, and woke up in the morning to palms rum punch with scrambled eggs and no flies! Had a great time, bone-fishing was spectacular, food fantastic – and the locals were terrific! All except Nettie. Apparently she had completely fallen out with the local bone-fishing guides and the rest of the locals: “gotten a bit queer of late” was one comment. Needless to say there was a moment that I thought we were going to have to spend a night on a road in the dark in the middle of the wilds being eaten alive.

If you go – restaurants in the town of Marsh Harbour are exceptionally good (we come from San Francisco so we know food) and we went to all 5 of them! Hotel was great, and JR is your bone-fishing guide (he’s on the web) – although I am sure that most of the guides are good as the fishing is the best I have ever experienced (better than Easter Island)!

And don’t go to Nettie's – we never did find out who we spoke to confirm our reservations and give us directions – perhaps a booking agent – it will remain a mystery.

Always get a referral before you go anywhere – local knowledge is a must when traveling!

Cheers!