Before the devastation of Hurricane Hugo in 1989, St. Croix's Divi resort used the motto "barefoot elegance". It might have been a bit of a stretch but it worked. Twenty-three years later, Andreas Conhoff, the Divi's general manager, is putting together something special on the island's eastern end. I have given this resort five stars but be forewarned, this is not Paradise Island, Dutch St. Maarten or, thankfully, even St. Thomas. St Croix is not party animal central. But for a vacation to relax, enjoy the water, sand and sun, and have an opportunity to re-create and reconnect, St Croix and the Divi get it done. (There is a casino on property but I am not familiar enough with it or other casinos to make a judgement.)
My family returns to this property because of the people we meet and have met (that would be you, Lucy and Ann Marie), for the prevailing trade winds off the ocean and, of course, for the beach ... uncrowded, well-maintained and protected by a reef that makes watersports safer and snorkeling more interesting. Kids love it.
The all-inclusive concept is particularly good for families. Bringing children is a bargain and the food ranges from BBQ informal to lobster pasta island cuisine. Big Al's pub staffed by the likes of Marlon, brother Curt, Scotty, Chris, Elizabeth and Donna is a place to gather as the sun heads to the horizon and the day's exploits are to be recounted over one of the island's rum anodynes.
Rather than repeat what others have said about the property and amenities, let me share some experiences about St. Croix and the Divi specifically that may be helpful.
The pace of the island is different than, say, mid-town Manhattan. It is wise to be patient if it takes a bit longer to get those conch fritters... enjoy "island time, mon". Be polite and respectful. Understanding and kindness is repaid disproportionately. If there is a problem, we have found that Andreas, his assistant, Kevin Jackson, and Ann Downs are professional, knowledgable and capable.
If you need help or information ... Edmond is the man. He has been at the Divi since post-Hugo and is one of the kindest and gentlest people worth knowing. He usually can be found in the lobby near the check-in desk. (Although Edmond is a long term staffer, Andreas has done an excellent job of hiring young, bright talent - Joy, Kizzy, and Rashid at East End Pizza.)
Bug spray is helpful. No-see-ums are a nuisance and the mosquitos like ankles. Buy or bring a small bottle of ammonia, the single best way to get near instant relief. Over-the-counter hydrocortisone ointment is also helpful. Wearing long pants when dining at any of the open-air cafes and restaurants helps protect in those dark under-table places.
Although the urge to indulge in the tropical sun is almost irresistible to us statesiders, it is wise to go slow because of its intensity. There's plenty of sun and clear skies. Pace yourself. The cool relief of the aloe plant's gel can offset the pain of too many "rays".
The Divi is at the far southeastern edge of St. Croix. This is important because it is favored by the trade winds coming from that direction ... a welcome cooling effect. The annual Christmas winds can be impressive with steady 20-25 knot velocity favored by windsurfers and kite boarders. Even if you have trouble staying upright on an inflatable tube, you'll still enjoy watching these aficionados showing off.
To get around the island, the usual stateside car rental companies and the local Centerline Car Rental are the best bet. But plan ahead especially during holiday times because cars sell out. Also, one of St. Croix's quirks is left-lane driving in American cars with left-hand steering wheels. It takes a bit of practice to get used to the sight lines. And drunk driving laws are enforced. If going in to Christiansted to raise a bit of hell at the Brew Pub or Rumrunners, designate a driver. (The Divi has its own entertainment schedule including Tito and Sue's crab races that are an island institution and legend. Tito's crabs are "so smart they can read their names on the back of their shells"!)
If you want to venture out of the Divi's confines, two of our favorite restaurants within a short drive are Duggan's Reef, the Rick's Cafe of the island, where you can bet that the wahoo you are enjoying in garlic butter was swimming the reef a few hours ago. The other is Diane's "South Shore Cafe". I did a Trip Advisor review on this establishment and refer you to it.
Finally, bring your camera. The Divi is a very attractive property and photo-ops abound. The light at dawn and dusk can be breathtaking. You'll need these digital images when you get back to the snow ... and reality.
Things change in the islands, sometimes quickly and tragically as we witnessed after Hugo, sometimes slowly and for the better. I am pleased to say that Andreas, Kevin, Ann et al have the Divi headed in the right direction and we look forward to our return once again to "barefoot elegance".
PS - Thank you, Andreas, for having the exercise equipment in good repair. Some of us need to work off the rum punches!
- Divi Carina Bay Hotel
