The Anegada Beach Cottages property is truly representative of life on the island of Anegada -- simple, rustic, relaxed -- but what an island, what a beach, what a life. We rented both halves of the twin-suite cottage for the first week in January 2010 and very much enjoyed our experience. We had a spectacular view. Cool breezes. Our own private palapa hut on the beach.
We have spent a few winter weeks on the BVI and USVI for the past seven years, primarily on St. John, Tortola and Virgin Gorda. This was our first visit to Anegada and it was a unique island/atoll -- very much worth the trip. When we were researching accommodations, we realized it was going to be a difficult decision -- mostly because there weren't many recent reviews on TripAdvisor and the information from other resources (e.g., Fodor's) was sparse. We read all of the information we could possibly find, visited all of the Web sites we were aware of and after doing a rigorous analysis of our personal goals for this leg of the trip (seclusion/quiet/privacy), we finally settled on ABC because 1) there was so much real estate between the cottages and 2) each cottage provided some shade (porches and palapa huts). It was also our intention to do a lot of lazing around and reading -- without getting too sunburned.
In addition to ABC, we seriously considered Keel Point Cottages, Loblolly Beach Cottages and the Gatehouse at the Anegada Reef Hotel. Unfortunatley during our visit, we didn't get to see Keel Point Cottages up close, but our guess is that they would be right up there in terms of seclusion and privacy just based on their location (plus, Jeep rental is included in the price of the rental -- a major benefit). Loblolly Beach Cottages are within walking distance of one of the best snorkeling spots on the island, which would be a huge plus, but the cottages did seem closer together, so that reinforced the choice we made in terms of seclusion. As for the Anegada Reef Hotel, we stopped by for drinks one night and it's definitely a lively spot for island sailors (including Jimmy Buffet) -- if you're looking for more of a party atmosphere, this could be the place for you. If we were to visit Anegada again with a larger party and if we couldn't secure several cottages at ABC, we would definitely consider Lavenda Breeze, a private villa on Loblobby Beach. It seems like a great spot based what we could see from the beach and on their Web site.
At Anegada Beach Cottages, we took long walks up and down the drop-dead gorgeous beaches each morning, read more novels in a week than we had in months and although we never found the flamingos on Anegada, it was fun searching for them at the salt ponds. This island is much larger than we anticipated! Our favorite drinking/dining spots were Cow Wreck Beach (not too far away from ABC) and Big Bamboo. (There is a book exchange at Big Bamboo, so if you have a book to give, you can find a book to take.)
We enjoyed visiting Sue's Purple Turtle and appreciated their advice about what to see and do on the island. (You can also check your Webmail at Sue's if you need to -- for just a few dollars of Internet time.) We had a fabulous Anegada grilled lobster dinner at The Lobster Trap. Honestly, all of the people on Anegada are incredibly friendly -- just about everyone will give you a wave as you pass on the road, so be sure to extend that kind of greeting back to your island hosts. Please start your conversations with a polite "Good Morning," "Good Afternoon," etc. -- it really does matter. And most importantly, remember to relax and accept that everyone is on island time. :-)
Tips: If you plan to stay on Anegada for more than a few days, it's a good idea to use Bobby's Market on Tortola for your provisions. They have a very nice, easy-to-use online interface to take your order -- and the selection is quite good. We were very impressed with the fresh romaine lettuce, broccoli and other items we ordered (e.g., turkey bacon, eggs, milk, light mayo, onions, potatoes, red wine vinegar, olive oil, etc.). In fact, let me just confirm that everying was absolutely on par quality-wise with what we are able to get at grocery stores in America. You can easily arrange to have your order shipped out on a specific ferry to Anegada (Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays). Don't count on being able to get every little last thing you want -- but you'll be able to get most of it. Bobby's does a great job of confirming your order. Because of the chaos during ferry loading, you'll have to take it on faith that your order is in there somewhere. Be patient at the Anegada dock finding your boxes. Everything is probably there. Just be patient.
While you might get lucky, you would be taking your chances getting good groceries at the local stores on Anegada -- it's rather hit or miss in terms of what's available and when the stores are open. By the same token, several restaurants are open during the day, but you need to make a reservation around 4 p.m. if you intend to dine in the evening.
If you cannot handle the following, do not plan to visit Anegada: 1) mosquitos and little ants -- they are everywhere; keep your doors closed at all times, clean your kitchen frequently and have sufficient supplies of bug spray on hand; 2) large mammals -- at ABC, be sure to keep the gate closed to prevent the cows, goats and donkeys from ravishing the landscaping. (But how amazing is it to see cows stampeding down the beach?!); 3) small reptiles, small mammals and large insects -- if you can't stand having wildlife occasionally visiting your accommodations, this might not be the island for you; 4) driving on the left side of the road -- about half the roads are paved, half are off-road sand and rocks -- rough riding for the uninitiated.
Truly, Anegada is a magical place. You can walk down some of the world's most beautiful beaches without running into another human for hours. You can read and relax on the beach or in the comfort of your cottage. You can dine at some lovely restaurants or cook for yourself. It's a place to unplug, unwind and relax. We've never been to a place quite like it and we very much look forward to returning. Thanks to McKenzie at Anegada Beach Cottages, Henney and Dean of D.W. Jeep Rentals and all of the wonderful people we met during our trip.
