I looked on the internet to see if Anse La Liberte was still there. I guess I wanted to make sure it wasn't just a dream, as my stay in 2003 had had such a magically strange quality. Another, more practical reason too: when I stayed, we were one of two families for the first week, and completely on our own for the next. It was heaven, but I thought, not sustainable on this earth.
So, I'm glad to find its contact details still listed, as my son has just said to me, "I can't wait to go to St Lucia". Unfortunately, he's going to have a long wait - a year or two at least. So I thought maybe I could tempt some of you adventurous travellers to give Anse La Liberte a go, so that it will be there for us when we come by again.
We (me, my husband,and 3 kids, - 6,8, and 13) camped for the first time here. I'd longed to do camping of any sort for years, but my husband was not keen. But with the prospect of St Lucia, even he was tempted. The wardens from the National Trust looked after us perfectly - they were there whenever we needed them, they took us to meet their families, and really made us feel welcome. Canaries, the nearby town is a walk away. A long walk on the way back, up a hill - but who hurries in St Lucia? If you stay here, be prepared to sit back and think about the important things in life.
Gunther, the ranger, took us to the most beautiful waterfall in a rainforest. On the way back, I saw a man walking along with a machete. I thought we should just drive past. But he jumped on to the back of the car, and jumped off at his destination. He'd been cropping pineapples. We gathered mangoes.
My son must mention every few months that his favourite food is "Bakes". These are fried doughy breads that the women sit and cook on their doorsteps in Canaries. It was a long walk down to the town, so one day to keep us going, we bought 20. She had to get other family members involved to meet the demand. We had them with a block of cheese that we bought from the shop, which was about as big as a bathroom.
The people were lovely and friendly. There were no other tourists there. The rainforest where we stayed was so beautiful and peaceful, and at night it was so completely black, that I cured myself of my fear of the dark from that point.
The children entertained themselves by watching lizards and hummingbirds and playing at the deserted beach. One day we watched a local man walk into the sea with a spear, and swim around the rocks out of view. When he emerged later, he had fish and an octopus.
We foolishly had not brought snorkel gear, (you couldn't buy it in Canaries) but we snorkled at the nearby protected reef at Anse Chastanet, where you could hire equipment. There you get a glimpse of another perfect world.
As I said, Anse La Liberte is the perfect place to do some thinking. My husband decided that camping, and us, were not for him. He left the weekend following our return home. I, too found what I really want to do, and thank God for that glimpse of how life could be which I saw in Anse La Liberte. For me it really was the Bay of Freedom.
My advice - go to St Lucia and only stay here - don't pick and chose a hotel to combine roughing it with the pampering you know you deserve. Live it like it should be lived. Make the most of the beautiful scenery, take time to think, and welcome the people who go out of their way to welcome you.
I might see you there.