I had read about Whitfield Hall in a couple of guidebooks and decided to try it out when I was in Jamaica. For $15 a night, I wasn't sure what to expect. This is what I had: a bunkbed in a room in a historic house. A good deal, I agree. The place wasn't full so I didn't have to share a room. Did share a bath. If I ever went back with a group of friends, I might try out their private cottage, or the new room that they're redecorating, which is supposed to be a little nicer. I loved the people who worked there -- no hustle, just helpful, nice people. Loved the big fireplace and the grounds.

Mr. John Allgrove knows everything about plants and told me a lot about how coffee is grown up there. I'm glad I didn't miss this spot, even if it's waaaaay off the beaten track. I've been to mountains in North Carolina and Switzerland, but these mountains were awesome. There was something surreal about walking through the mountains in Jamaica -- I even saw MANGO trees up near Whitfield Hall.

I would go back again, and try their other rooms, too. I'm a good sport, and this is a place for people who are good sports -- people who don't need thousand dollar sheets or a masseuse on staff (not that there's anything wrong with massage!).

I found the place by going through their website, which is pretty good. Another thing, I felt safe. This is a big plus. It's not about selling you crafts or getting your hair braided or whatever. It's where you go to appreciate nature and relax. And if that's what you want, and you're on a budget but don't want to skimp on views, and you don't want to deal with the sell-sell-sell mentality, Whitfield Hall is perfect.

The drive up to Whitfield Hall is totally breathtaking! Be sure to go in a 4 wheel drive. The roads are steep and sometimes unpaved. Once you get into the mountains, the air is crisp and clear and the views are gorgeous. They're called the Blue Mountains because with the fog coming off, they have a bluish cast. Whitfield Hall itself is an old home that is run as a hostel -- the rooms are very basic and clean. Great fireplace in the big common area. Excellent people working there. You can have meals cooked for you. It's also a coffee farm so the coffee is home grown! A lot of trekkers go there but it's also a good place to get away from all the craziness of Kingston or the touristy beaches and just relax. I think it's not for people who want all the amenities because there's no electricity, just lanterns. And no hot water! Brrrrr! But a lovely spot. Not like the stereotypical Jamaica from commercials.

If you want to see some of the real Jamaica, this place is a must!
Getting there is part of the adventure and the scenery is just incredible. The trip from Kingston can be made by minibus to Mavis Bank, which is the mannner of travel for the local population also. It is inexpensive but once you get to Mavis Bank, it's either a strenuos walk to Whitfield Hall or a 4-wheel drive vehicle can be hired to take you up the STEEP road to the inn. I've done both and both have their advantages. If you're not in shape, hire the 4-wheel drive vehicle. Ask around at the start of the dirt road up to the peak or start up and when you see a few well-weathered Land Rovers just a few hundred yards up, you can stop here and hire one. The gentleman who lives here is more than gracious and comes highly recommended by me. Cost can be for less than$1000JA(about$20US) round trip. Negotiate kindly and you may be surprised! The rate is for the whole vehicle and not per person.
Down below the dirt road, they make ask for much more and tell you that there are no other vehicles on the road up. Don't just take someone's word in Mavis Bank. Everyone here has little or no money, so be respectful and it will be returned likewise. Whitfield Hall is old,rustic and not luxurious(like the all-inclusives back at the beach) but the smell out front by the eucalyptus trees is fantastic. They can make fresh Blue Mt. coffee for you and also have coffee beans to take back down with you. The trail up to the peak starts a short half mile at most past the Inn(Whitfield Hall). Enjoy the views!!! Everthin' is irie!!!!

Obviously things have changed little since I visited Whitfield Hall on the way to Blue Mountain Peak some 40 years ago. How good to know that this beautiful part of Jamaica is still a secret.

Apart from the wonderful mountain landscapes and the delightful folk that live in the area my most vivid memory of Whitfield Hall were the breakfasts. Do they still serve Blue Mountain Coffee and freshly baked bread I wonder? The smell was out of this world and the taste superb.

Hopefully I'll be able to find out in the not too distant future as I hope to visit later this year.

This is a part of Jamaica that few tourists have yet found. They simply don't know what they're missing and in some ways I'm rather glad.