My husband and I were looking for an adventure and set-off to trek to the highest mountain top in the Blue Mountains. We found Whitfield Hall in the Moon Jamaica Handbook and rang them up. 24 hours later we were making our way by bus first to Kingston, then hopped another local bus to Papine, then another to Mavis Bank. We were excited to find our next driver, Roydell, waiting for us with his Land Rover pick-up truck. The ride through the lush terrain, past board homes, and chatting it up with the occasional local rider in the bed of the pick-up and into the mountains is one of our best memories of our trip to Jamaica.
We made it to Whitfield Hall just before sundown and stepped inside the dark plantain house with the sweet smells of Jamaican cooking and kerosene lamps mingling in the dusty air. We were the only guests that evening, and all of the caretakers were poised to take care of us. One man showed us our room, while another sat fireside and chatted with us through dinner. Yet another cooked and served our meal. And another would knock on our door at 2 AM to lead us up through Portland Gap and to the highest point in Jamaica.
The starlit hike was exhilarating and moderate-to-easy, as far as hikes go. We reached to top by 6 am and waited inside of the dilapidated bunk house, wrecked by a hurricane, until we saw the first indication of sunrise. The air was brisk and the winds were high, probably 40 (f) degrees - this was the only time we were cold in Jamaica, so not a big deal.
We were lucky - the sky was clear and sunrise incredible (friends of ours who've made the trek have not been so lucky). We could see the ocean from both sides of the mountain tops. Our hike down was easy, and we took in all of beauty of the tropical flowers, coffee bushes, and birds. Fragrant Eucalyptus trees welcomed us back to the plantain house, where a hot breakfast awaited us. Breakfast was a little disappointing, because of the mix of Jamaican & American breakfast food - we prefer eating local cuisine when we travel.
We also realized we didn't have enough cash on us to pay for everything: Land Rover transport, lodging, meals, hiking guide, and coffee. As a result, we had to ask Roydell to take us all the way down to Papine to use the nearest ATM machine. Thus, our ride back down was a hefty toll at $90! - Our mistake. Make sure you bring plenty of cash, and expect to pay for everything they offer - including a cup of coffee awaiting you when you wake at 2 AM, a fire in the fireplace, etc.
All-in-all this was a great, one-of-a-kind get-away from the sometimes hectic nature of being a tourist in Jamaica. You have to be willing to "rough-it" to do it, but it is well worth it for the experience of a day-in-the-life of remote Jamaica. We spent less than 24 hours up here, and would recommend taking a few more days at least - we missed exploring the coffee plantain and really getting to know the locals here.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC