After about an hour and a half on a BUMPY road from the south beach of Tulum with its hotels, restaurants and yoga gurus, we arrived dusty and thirsty at the Xamach Dos. We were greeted by american owner Dan (later known as Driftwood Dan) and his daughter Michelle. A welcome-shot of tequila later we were laughing with them and about this place. We couldn't believe our luck. This place is possibly not for everyone - but for us and I guess most people who venture out here, it's perfect.

There's not a single neighbour around (and no yoga classes, shamans or hip hotels). There are maximum around 10 guests at the same time, and you'll probably like the other guests, because they too went out of their way to get here. There are multiple colourful hammocks in palmtrees. There is the endless BEACH with large flocks of big beautiful birds above. Sea kayaks and snorkeling gear to grab when you feel like it (bring your own mask if you can, theirs are worn out), and a coral reef a ten minute kayak ride out from the beach. And bring fishing gear!

ROOM: we stayed in the ridiculously romantic Treetop Cabana. It has a large comfy bed, a beautiful palapa roof and those driftwood details and conch shells everywhere. "Rustic" I believe is the word they use for cabanas like this. Check out my pictures. There is a funny blue mosaic bathtub (who would ever try to use it?). The water pressure is ok, lots of warm water for showers. And the view... You can see the sunrise from bed.

FOOD: The whole experience was one of being welcomed into a family, and that goes for the food too. There is no menu (bliss!). You sit down with the whole Xamach family, everyone at a long ugly plastic Corona table (no, not hip, just unpretentious) and have a beer while waiting for Francisca or Laura to finish food which is home made, simple and always great. Oh, that chili salsa... And those breakfast banana pancakes...

OVERALL IMPRESSION: This is a true getaway. No room service, no unnecessary change of towels, no neighbours, no other tourists, no nightlife (though Michelle makes the best margaritas!!). Very welcoming. We felt as if we were visiting american relatives in their summer house; the kind of relatives that take great care of you and understand when you need to be left alone - and when you feel like som coconut bocce ball...

SO: thank you State Gouvernment for not taking care of the road! Otherwise this pristine streach of beach would probably be full of hotels, even though it's in the middle of the biosphere.

This is a beautiful, secluded place: great accommodation, mostly hand built by Dan, the American owner. It's right on the beach, and you can choose from different sorts of accommodation, from the tiny, hidden "Casa Secreta" to the hut on stilts "Tree House" as you might expect) with a fantastic view - the most popular choice apparently. There is nothing to do but chill out, which was just as well, if like us, you've flown into Cancun from Paris, met up with your American friends, and then driven for hours (the last bit a complete nightmare in the dark, on a road that is apparently better than it was). Top tip, do it in daylight, preferably not jet lagged, and then it will seem like more fun! Dan and his local staff are welcoming and hardworking, spending hours cleaning up the beach which gets covered in rubbish, mostly from cruise ships, it seems. Accommodations are clean but basic,but there is everything you need for sitting on the beach. Food is a bit basic, and our American friends thought there should be more of it; it would be nice to be offered a pudding or a starter at dinner. But breakfast was good and the banana pancakes first class! I don't think the owner is making a lot of money, given his position at the end of that road. You can hire the whole place to have for yourself if necessary, which would be great for a family reunion or a load of friends. Take a torch - it all runs on solar power! We would love to go back, now that we know just how long it takes to get down the road.

To get to this accommodation it's a 1.5 - 2 hour drive from Tulum down a dirt track. It takes so long because the road is terrible. It's difficult to find a taxi driver willing to ruin his car to take you there so hire a car. We asked the owner before booking about getting there and all we were told was 'hire a car', no mention of the road condition or the time taken to get there, quite unhelpful, although if we were told the details we would have stayed closer to Tulum, costing the owner a booking.

Once there the place is nice, you can swing in a hammock all day watching the pelicans fishing. You're so far from anywhere else all you can do is relax.

A downside to that is you're locked in to eating there and it's expensive for Mexico. It cost us $15 for a tiny meal of rice with 3 meatballs, I felt ripped off when I found the price of that meal (we didn't know the food costs until checking out as they're not advertised). There's no menu so you have to pay for and eat what you're given and you eat with the others staying there. This wasn't a problem for me but was for others who didn't like the food.

Budget about $40 pppd excl drinks for that - and there's nowhere else to eat without driving a long way on an unlit dirt track.

A quick word on the beach - it's covered in trash, it seems all of the plastic dumped in the sea ends up on that stretch of coast line. There's nothing the owners of the hotel can do about that and they do clear up the beach outside of the accommodation every day to keep it clean for guests. You only notice the trash once you head a very small distance along the beach from the accommodation.

If you're going for a week or so it could be worth braving the journey as long as you know the food is going to cost as the place is nice and relaxng once there, but for a few days and/or no rental car it's not worth the effort.

Greetings earthlings and ALL seekers of truth from the travel community! What will you find in my posting? The honest to goodness truth. This is no advertisement. It's an evaualtion of my own personal experience that you can study on your own and then make your own personal decision if Xmach Dos is for you....

What will you find?

An untouched beach and pennisula bordered by the jungle and mangrove on one side and the beaches and bays of the carribean sea on the other. Xamach Dos is 32 Km down the very bumpy road leaving Tulum. You will drive through a "protected area" aka the Sian Kaan. If SUPER lucky one might spot wildlife, yes at dusk we made a jaguar sighting on the road on our way down to the property. Dan, an American and his daughter Michele own and operate the property with the help of a local family. Everyone made us feel welcome and at home. The place is special, artistic, and clean. My girlfriend really likes clean and if it passed her test it must be of high standard. It is run on solar juice and generator. There are 5 units to choice from which dot the beachfront. They are secreta, treetop, luna, sol, and grande. Each unit is different so make sure you know how they differ. Treetop is on stilts and right on the beach, it is a classic robinson carucoe fort treehouse that stares at the sea. We were not lucky enough to catch the "nace de sol" or sunrsie from the deck of treetop room, but it must be stunning.

For me they had all the essentials for water play. Worthy sea kayaks, carlisle paddles, pfd's, mask , snorkel, and fins! There is a decent little reef 300-400 yards from Xamach Dos beach. I spotted a stingray, puffer, and baby octopus hiding in an abandoned conch shell. The conch are thriving. And I'm sure the turtles are there on occasion as well. Now don't get me wrong this not on par with the great snorkel desitnations around the world's oceans but it will satisfy your appetite. If snorkeling and swimming are high on your list I would say you will be ok with the experience.

There is a small section of a Mayan ruin that sits across the road and into the jungle. The ruins provided a nice little bonus to staying here since we didn't go to the prolific and immense ruins at Tulum or Coba

Don't worry foodies I'm going to talk a bit about the food situation now. It's family style, guests eat together and the meal is a mystery this happens for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It was actually a nice break from not having to choose the meal. But this could present a problem for certain individuals. The food was fresh and well prepared. We left on the morning banana pancakes were served with caramilized coconut and fried bacon on the side. If you eat 3 meals/day expect to pay about $40/person. All drinks including liquor and beer will be extra.

NOW...things to be aware of:

1. bumpy road out of Tulum will rattle the fillings in your teeth. Stay out of the holes.

2. the short beach on property will be good, but the wild beach has the oceans trash on it. I went 1.5 hours along the beach north of the property.

3. Eating as a group and having the meal as a mystery.

4. If you go further south don't stay at Cuzan....it's rundown! But you should get down there and have some coffee from the Canadian there named Peter that's if you can brave another 20km on the road. Which gets pretty good on the way into Punta Allen. Maybe 45 minutes one-way if you have driving skillz!!!

It is my hope some of this paints a clearer picture for "you" the traveler in your PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS!

whether you loved or hated it. Safe travels and kind regards,

Senor Moksa