Actually this is a great hotel - sort of mix of early twentieth century art work (some of the paintings would get you arrested these days, but they passed for art then). Its about three metres from the lake (horizontally) and about a hundred above - so great views, but a little tricky if you have vertigo. The special rates were good - but it meant the place was full of retired travellers - which could be an advantage if your goal is to meet other travellers.

I am a travel writer and spend a great deal of time carefully choosing unique hotels as I know how one can misinterpret internet photographs. The choice of a hotel can make or break a travel experience and render the journey truly memorable or eminently forgettable.

I was on a research trip to Switzerland as I am writing for a new book concerning a glamorous concert pianist active in the 1920s. Everyone knows the country is frighteningly expensive just now what with the strength of the Swiss Franc added to the generally stratospheric Swiss prices (complained about since the eighteenth century incidentally).

I was very unhappy with the so-called hotel I was staying in and moved to the Hotel Victoria for the remainder of my stay. This superb Relais and Chateaux establishment is situated in the charming village of Glion above Montreux priced at slightly less for a double room than the hotel I had abandoned, Le Baron Tavernier at Chexbres.
The room at Hotel Victoria was at the rear on the corner on the top floor and had a view over the charming village, much of the lake and the forest and pastures behind the hotel. As this was an emergency last-minute booking I obtained the very last room available and so could not take advantage of the superb rooms and suites with balconies, French doors and striped yellow blinds at the front of the establishment with a truly spectacular view over the water and jagged Alps. The views of the Alps from these foothill shores are so superior to my mind to those from Geneva itself.

This hotel is one of the finest I have stayed in for a very long time (which is really saying something). The establishment richly deserves its multiple red designations in the 2011 Red Michelin Guide to Switzerland (‘Quiet Hotel’ ‘Exceptional View’ and ‘Particularly Pleasant‘ in its ‘Very comfortable’ category). Absolutely unique in the best sense of the word. Like many perfect things it has its charming foibles which merely add to its charm.

The spacious room was furnished with antique furniture and the largest antique double bed I have ever encountered - well over King Size. The large luxurious bathroom was fitted out with gleaming expensive accoutrements, the occasional tasteful sculpture, a bidet, period free-standing bath set on lion’s feet, rain shower cabin and fluffy towelling robes with slippers.

The superb restaurant with extensive breakfast menu included an elegant dining terrace under the foliage of a trellis overlooking the lake from high above, the view taking the eye past the steeple of the old parish church perched on an escarpment overlooking the twinkling lights of Montreux. A most romantic dinner evolves as the sun sets over Lac Leman (Lake Geneva) and the informative staff expertly serve the fine wine and delectable food. The attention to detail at this hotel is remarkable, each table having a different fragrant potted herb as decoration to the pristine napery. A Chinese alcove with cane furniture is reserved for those who wish to conclude their indulgent hedonism with an old Armagnac and a fine Cohiba cigar. The owner clearly has a cultivated artistic taste and seems to be always wandering about noting this and that, greeting the guests individually as he has been doing for the last 30 years.

During the day a decent sized swimming pool offers welcome bliss as a respite after an aggressive day among the public sight-seeing at the Chateau de Chillon and along the lake shore. Beautifully appointed sun-loungers with towels overlook a truly spectacular panorama of water and mountains that lie beyond the extensive, carefully cultivated gardens. Civilised sun-bathing could be followed up by a session in the fitness room and Jacuzzi if one felt so inclined. Or one might simply relax in the magnificent public spaces finely and tastefully decorated with valuable paintings, grand piano and objets d'art. One may wander at dusk in the carefully tended gardens, sit on a bench and embrace the magnificent view while admiring the occasional small animal figures in bronze that peep out from the shrubbery and add an elegant feel to this paradise. A herd of rare breed cattle graze in a pasture on an adjoining property and Swiss bells tinkle in the distance. Staff go out of their way to be friendly and helpful.

Noel Coward stayed at this hotel for a year and a tetchy Somerset Maugham often visited. If you are ever planning to visit Lake Geneva near Montreux and have a car this is the only place you should consider.

I simply never wanted to leave.

Michael Moran
www.michael-moran.net

This was our second visit and we asked for Room 18 which is on the corner above the main entrance. It is a fairly large and a charming room with windows on two sides. There was a bowl of roses on the table with fruit and sweets. The views over the lake from the small balcony are stunning. There are attractive reproduction pictures on the walls and good quality furniture and a comfortable bed. The bathroom is dated but works perfectly well. The owners have collected an enormous amount of antiques which are dispersed around the hotel. It give an unique atmosphere in the huge foyer with lots of places to sit in. There are masses of flowers everywhere. The hotel is well run by the owners and the restaurant is in our opinion extremely good. There is none of the gimmicky fusion/haute cuisine rubbish one finds in so many places. Just straightforward food beautifully cooked and served. The gardens are lovely with a terrace overlooking the lake edged with roses.

We agree with all the excellent critics. A Palace as it's difficult to find nowadays. All seemed to be a dream here: the bedroom, the views, the service, the restaurant. The best of the old world with the touches of modernism needed and of excellent taste. Bravo! it's so rare! Congratulations to the owner and team.