We went to Ambua Lodge as part of a Trans Niugini Tours package, and we stayed there 3 nights. I will say at the outset that I really liked Ambua Lodge overall, BUT there were some problems.
The Bad:
On our second day here, we had a bit of a scare with raskols, which is not at all what we expected here. Port Moresby, maybe, but not here. The raskols didn't rob us, or hurt us, because we were with a guide from Ambua Lodge, but 6 or so of these guys (looking not at all friendly and carrying machetes, and one of them had a rifle... they had painted their faces and so were disguised). They definitely had very bad intentions. We saw them smash up the window of a bus that was approaching us, which was quite frightening. They talked to our guide, but did not come into the bus. This was out at the Tari Gap, some 5-10km from the Lodge, right after some birdwatching. We thought the trip was going to be exciting, but this sort of excitement was not what we expected. This episode definitely freaked us out, although we never once considered leaving PNG because of this.
Rats in our room got into my luggage and ate my emergency snacks. Also, I saw a rat running around the dining hall. Keep your luggage zipped up tight in the rooms.
We were 2 females traveling together, and when we were in the villages we felt a bit frightened; got some malevolent stares from many, many men. However, when we were on the Trans Niugini Tours more intimate (and pre-booked) look at village life, Huli Wigmen, etc., it was perfect. But when we just went to look at a random village, unbooked, we felt very, very uneasy, to put it mildly.
The Good:
OK, so you don't come to Papua New Guinea and expect it to be like Hawaii, so who cares about a few rats or bugs? Overall, the TNT tour, guide, accommodations and everything were very good. The bus picked us up at the airstrip right on time (and took us to our flight out on time as well), and our guide & driver took us to everything we asked for (except to return to see the birds of paradise -- we did not want to risk seeing those raskols again). The staff here was very helpful in general. The food at the lodge was so-so, kind of boring, but not terrible. The visit to the women's area of the village was excellent, as were the Huli Wigmen, the men with the yellow painted faces, the mourning ceremony re-enactment and the wedding ceremony re-enactment. The setting of Ambua Lodge is lovely, and there are some very pretty waterfalls nearby. We did see several species of birds of paradise here, but they were far away and hard to see. Definitely bring binoculars and the longest camera lens (300, 400mm) you are willing to bring.
We went during the off-season (that is, during the summer, but not during the sing-sing time). In some ways, this has a lot of advantages, such as practically private photo shoots, and a nearly private lodge stay. The main drawback is that there are few (if any) other visitors during this time, and if you seek the company of other travelers, it may get lonesome.
The temperature here at Ambua is pleasant, not hot and humid. Nighttime can be cool, do bring a fleece jacket. The heated blankets in the rooms were very nice.
Special note for women: PNG is a very unusual place. I am a pretty intrepid traveler (as is my female friend who traveled with me) but I do not recommend coming to Tari or Ambua Lodge alone as a female -- you may be a little freaked out. For PNG in general, (esp if you are traveling outside of the Trans Niugini Tour program) make sure you have arranged for transfers from all your flights, and that you go anywhere outside of your hotel room with a local guide/guard. It is not advisable for a non-PNG woman to wander around anywhere in PNG alone, especially not in the cities: Port Moresby (particularly) but also Wewak, Lae, Mt. Hagen, Goroka, etc. The only exception to these rules is the Karawari Lodge which is very safe (but far from any towns.) If you must go out in the evening in a town, make sure you are with a secure group, and minimize your time out in the evenings (outside your hotel or lodge, that is) if at all possible.
- Ambua Hotel Tari
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